COPY OF JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD THE BRIG EMULUS,
ON HER PASSAGE OUT FROM HALIFAX TO NEW ZEALAND
BY MRS A. F. PORTER 1868
August 19th Wednesday 1868. We left Halifax Monday at twelve o'clock. We have a good breeze, and are swiftly leaving the land we so dearly love. We are just off MacNabs Island with the city of Halifax behind in full view. So we must bid adieu to all the scenes of the past. Now perhaps for the first time in our lives we fully realize how much we love our friends and native land. Oh! the bitterness of this hour. It seems as if I had lived years within the last week.
Farewell kindred! Farewell friends! Farewell Halifax! Farewell!
Wednesday 26th. One week has passed away since we left Halifax, and we are just 1033 miles at sea. Nearly all on board have suffered much from seasickness. Oh! the misery of the first three days and nights of our voyage. Husband, the three children, and myself were too seasick to move or stir, and could not help ourselves at all, much less each other. The steward and two or three others so were not quite so bad looked in occasionally and brought us some little nourishment and drinks. I still feel quick sick, but am able to sit up a little, Milton is recovering but Albert, Fred and Willie are still very sick. I went out on deck to-day, and met several of the passengers, whom I have not seen before. Some of them are still suffering much from sea-sickness. A number, too, are very homesick, and say; "O, if I ever get on land again, I will stay there". One lady in particular, is so homesick that she is determined to get on the first homeward bound ship, that we meet, and return to our friends. Sometime she thinks she will surely die, poor thing! The winds thus far have been strong and fair, so we have made a pretty good beginning of our long voyage.
We entered the Gulf Stream on Saturday Morning 22nd. In the evening they dipped up some of the water, and put it into a large tub; some of the children found it quite comfortable for bathing. Five pretty little birds have followed us all the way From Sambro. We are glad of their company. The Sailors call them Mother Carey's chickens.
Thursday Afternoon 27th. It is a little squally just now, and the spray is flying over into the vessel. A number of the seasick ones are better today. We have 53 souls on board. There are 12 woman and 12 children. The youngest is a babe of 4 months. The next youngest are two little girls, twin children, of Anderson the Mate. There is a little boy three years of age. The ages of the other children range From 5 to 10 years. They are all very good, thus far, and get along very agreeably. I have now seen all of our company, and obtained a general impression of the sort of companions we are to have for the next 3 or 4 months.
Our Captain and his wife are very unlike each other, in a physical point of view. He is lank and lean. She is fat and plump. He is rather diminutive, keeps himself as neat as a doll, lounges a good deal on the sofa, and seems to take every thing very easy.
The first mate is an industrious, wild, jolly, rough and ready, real good fellow. He has been, himself, Master of a ship on many long voyages, and it is the general opinion, on board, that he is a much better Seaman then the Captain. His wife became very ill on the day we left Halifax, and still lies very low. It is feared she can not stand it long. This case is testing the skill of our young Doctor, who, though he may have the theory of medicine, has never had much practice. This is a very bad case, For several days she seemed wavering between life and death, and it was feared by all that we would have to witness a sad scene of an ocean burial. But she is now slowly recovering, we hope. The twins are bright black eyed, pretty little girls. They are remarkably good natured and are general favourities, and we all feel sorry for them and their Father, who besides his many duties as first officer of the ship has much to do to attend to his poor sick wife. The second mate has his wife and little boy seven years of age on board. She is very seasick homesick and tired of the sea. There is also an english family a man and his wife and one little girl. They have lived in Halifax a few years. This lady is always boding some evil and looking on the dark side of things. Another family consists of a man, his wife, three children and a maiden sister of the lady. A young married man his wife and babe, and the man's Father of seventy two years comprise another family. This young man is the ships carpenter and when not employed about the ship works at sash making for the New Zealand Company. A young man, his wife, and brother make up another family. This lady is very delicate and was induced to take this voyage and try New Zealand for her health, but she looks as if she would not live to see that far off land. A widow and her son make up another family. She has two sisters in N.Z., who have sent for her to go and live with them. She is very deaf and looks sad and lonely. We have also a young couple who have been only three weeks married. She is fair as the lily with cheecks like blushing roses. She is the youngest lady on board. We have beside some six or eight young men most of whom are mechanics, one ugly old bachelor who is noted for his profanity. He received a severe reproof for swearing, by the captain a few days ago, which he took very unkindly. He seems to think that as he has paid his passage he is at liberty to do as he pleases. Our two cooks Smith and Grant are good natured obliging fellows but do not prove themselves to be as good cooks as we could wish. We have two Stewards one stewardess and a cabin boy who we call Sandy. As for the sailors I have only just learned their names and know but very little about them. Their is Bill and Dick and Jim and Harry and Jack. In a crowd like this we are very naturally desirous to know something of the moral and religious character of our companions. I have ascertained that seven including husband and myself are Baptists. Two are Methodists. Three are Presbyterian. Two or three call themselves Church of England; but the greater part do not prefer any religion.
Friday 28th Most of the sea sick one's are getting around again, and are able to be on deck but I am sorry to say that Albert is not of this number. He does not really like the rest. He raised blood last evening and is very sick to-day, so that he cannot sit up at all.
Saturday 28th We spoke a beautiful large ship this morning. The Cambay, 94 days From Calcutta, bound For Liverpool, England. She promised to report us on arrival, and send a paper containing the report to the Halifax reading room. Thus our paper reading Friends will learn of our safe and prosperous voyage thus far over the trackless deep. The Captain inquired if Joe Howe was in Halifax when we left. This amased us much, and we gave 3 cheers For Joe Howe, and three For the ship Cambay. It has been quite calm all day we have had the wind blowing in one direction ever since we left, which is considered very remarkable in these waters. The like was never known by any of our crew. There has been very great anxiety and excitement this evening, in consiquence of the sudden illness of the Mate Anderson. He was taken with severe pain and cramp, quite soon after tea, and has suffered very much ever since. The Doctor says "He has every sympton of Asaiatic Cholira".
Sunday Evening 30th. We have enjoyed a delightful clam and quiet Sabbath. Albert is always much better when it is calm, and this morning he was able to hold Forth the Word of life. They all came on deck, and listened attentively to an interesting dis-course From these words, We are journeying on to the place, of which the Lord hath said, I will give it thee. Numbers 10,29. In the evening I played the Melodeon, and others sang to the Music and seemed to enjoy it much. Anderson is much better.
Monday 31st We have a good fair wind, and making about 9 knots an hour. Saw quite a number of porpoise today. Two vessels have been in sight, but we did not get near enough to speak to them. We are just coming into the Trade Winds.
September 2nd. We have had Fine weather with the North east trades blowing gently For somedays, and are being pleasantly wafted along over the wide waste of waters.
A variety of plain and fancy needle work is being done by the ladies. I am making husband a thin coat to wear in the Tropics. The captain's wife has made him a Full suite of grass cloth, and she has covered his hat with white cotton, he has also white canvas shoes, so he dresses in white From the crown of his head to his feet. This dress is very suitable for the Tropics. We stay on deck all day. Some are reading old newspapers, because they can't get new ones, As the mail don't come around now. Others read books of various kinds, Books of travels. Stories of voyages. Prose and works of art, and the scienece. Indeed, the books seem as various as the characters who read them. Others are Fond of conversing, and among the subjects of their conversation, the most common is the brig Emulus. Her strength, safety, speed, and the probable length of the present voyage, are in their turn discussed. Whether we shall ever arrive in New Zealand. Whether we shall have fair weather or storms etc. some among the crowd, play chequers, and other games. Some of the children read a good deal, others Find their chief amusement in whittling. The Carpenter is at his work on deck, under the Awning. The wee baby does a large amount of crying, greatly to the annoyance of those who do not like such music, and they say that though the weather is very calm. We have frequent squalls. Some there are who stand at the rail and gaze For hours, together at the water, and watch the movement of the vessel. But I am not strong enough For that yet. It makes me Feel sick and giddy. We are abundantly supplied with musical instruments, but there are not many good singers among us. There are 2 Melodeons, 1 Fiddle, 4 Flutes, 2 Accordeons, and 2 Concertain's, all of which we need to make the time pass pleasantly on our long voyage: This sort of life is new and strange to many of us, and here, shut out From the world, and plenty of time on our hands often, aye very often does our mind turn back to our Native shores, and many memories of the past come rushing upon us. Yes though we are steadily borne onward every wave carrying us still Further from the land of our birth, yet we do not Forget the Friends who care For us, and we hope to be long re-membered by them, and trust that many good wishes and prayers will Follow us while on board the Emulus, that we may be safely guided to the land we seek.
Thursday 3rd. The wind is rising. It is quite rough. Many of the passengers are sea-sick again.
My family are all very sick, except Milton. He seems remarkably well and is a great help to me. A more willing Faithful obedient boy I could not wish. The sick lady is better. Every Fine day her husband brings a bed, and then carries her in his arms to the bed, where she remains the greater part of the day, breathing the pure air, and Fanned by soft gentle breezes.
Wednesday Sept 9th. Strong winds continued untill yesterday morning, and Albert was sick while they lasted. Since then they have been very gentle, almost a calm and Albert is again able to sit up. It is very warm, The mercuiry stands at 83 most of the time, varying little day or night. We do not mid the heat when there is wind but it is very oppressive to day. I feel weak and lanquish and not much inclined to work. Have been reading most of the day. We are just three weeks out, and are 2800 miles From Halifax. The nights are very dark now. We miss the pleasant moonlight which we have enjoyed so much, We had a narrow escape From burning yesterday. The roof of the galley caught Fire, and was in a light blaze but it was so soon discovered and extinguished, that but little damage was done. Our Flour proved to be very bad contrary to our expectations as it was very bad as it was bought For the very best. This is a little more than passengers seem inclined to bear patiently. There is evidently some rascality practised upon us in this matter. The Flour was purchased From Bligh and we are very sorry to believe that he would thus deceive us in a matter of so much importance. But someone has undoubtly cheated us, and we are great sufferers in consequence. The rest of the provision is good, and the supply abundant. We brought a beautiful Canary bird with us, but the voyage did not agree with him. His cage Fell twice, which I suppose hurt him and he took sick and died, last Sunday. Poor little bird, we are all sorry and miss him very much.
Friday afternoon Sept 11th. We are making only about five knots an hour. This is the hottest day we have had yet. The mercury stands at 84. WE have not had any rain of any account since we left Halifax. I have done no washing except a few colored clothes in salt water, which is a very difficult task. Our water is getting very bad, and I often suffer thirst and long for a cooling drink. One of the passengers says he would give a dollar and a half for a drink of iced water We have plenty of lime juice, to put into the water, to make it nice, but pure cold water would be far nicer, I never imagined we could suffer so much from thirst.
September 12th. Calm and heat very oppressive. Mercury at 85! We are nearing the Equator. The Sun is directly over our heads. There are a great many flying fish in these waters. They catch them by putting a light on the side of the ship, and they fly towards it and often fall onto the deck. Sometimes sharks come around the ship. One came a little too near this morning for his own safety, and they caught him with a ships noose, and so Mr Shark was hawled onto the deck, which occasioned not a little excitement among our crowd. All gathered around to see the huge monster, for it was very large. Now a question arose as to the best manner of disposing of this strange passenger. To eat the shark, or not to eat him was the question. Some contended that sharks were poison; others declared they were luscious food. At last after much discussion it was decided to boil him, and test him by putting a silver piece in the pot while boiling, if he were poison the silver would turn black, and if it was not it would come out bright. So when the cooks went to dish up dinner, as they found the silver bright, Mr Shark was served out liberally to all who wished a piece of fresh fish. I did not taste it, but those who did, said it was very nice indeed.
Sunday morning Sept 13th. Still very calm and warm I never felt the heat like this, and yet I have seen the thermometer 15 degrees higher than it is here. I can now fully understand those words of the poet "Though in distant lads we sign parched beneath a burning sky" etc.
Sunday afternoon. We have just had a slight shower. How glad and thankful we were to see it rain once more. We were hoping it would have continued until we should catch some water. O! for a little pure water. The wind is now breezing up and should it continue fair, we will cross the line in a few day.s Then we hope to have it cooler and have more rain.
Husband is still very poorly. He has not looked so sick for 5 years. With a very great effort he conducted service this morning on deck. Milton is reading the Psalms to us.
Monday the 14th. Last night being too warm for sleep, I felt much relieved to see the morning dawn, and went very early on deck to breathe the fresh air. My early rising was well repaid by the sight of a tropical sunrise at sea, the glories of which cannot possibly be imagined, by one who has not seen them. Words cannot describe it, No Artist paint its gorgeous hues. The Psalmist gives some faint idea of these splendours, when he compares the heavens to the ancient Tabernacle, from which the sun comes forth, as a Bridegroom out of his chamber, and rejoiceth as a strong man to run a race.
Tuesday 15th. This morning at 8 o'clock there appeared about a mile to the North East, a tremendous water spout. It was a magnificent sight. I should suppose it to be a 1/4 of a mile high, joining at the top a heavy black cloud. The rest of the sky was clear until 2 P.M., when it suddenly gathered blackness, and the rain descended in torrents for an hour in a way that we never saw before. The decks were immediately flooded, and all who were out were drenched to the skin. We caught from the after house alone, nearly 3 Puncheons of water, which caused not a little rejoicing. Directly after the shower the sun came out as brightly as before, and there appeared about 100 black fish not more than 10 yards from the vessel, which caused another general excitement. One thing is very remarkable in these latitudes the days and nights are always of equal length. There is no twilight. The sun sets at 6 o'clock and it is dark immediately. The Thermometer today is at 97o still calm and we make but little progress. Thin clothing in great demand. Many of us feel weak and lanquid, and almost sick. The Mate's wife is so fare recovered as to be able to sit up and walk about the deck.
Wednesday Sept 16th. A great quantity of washing was done today. Each one, men and women doing their own. Milton rendered me great Assistance. About 10 P.M., the Mate, Doctor, and others, launched a small boat, and went on board of a ship from Africa, bound to Liverpool, England. Several letters were thus sent to friends at home, and the Captain added a report of our progress thus far, to be printed in the Nova Scotia Newspapers.
Thursday Sept 17th. Still in the calms or doldrum's just where we were three days ago. Have only made 250 miles during the past week. The passengers look rather low spirited, and seem a little discouraged at our slow progress. Had our trunks on deck to-day and spread out the clothes to air. Found some of them very much mildewed and damp.
Friday Sep 18th. There is a fine breeze to-day and things on board begin to assume a more lively aspect. All our flour is proving very bad. They have just tried another barrel. It is dark, sour and maggoty, it is also badly cooked and our appetites are very delicate. I am very sorry I did not bring some nice things with me for my own use.
Tuesday 22nd. Calm and intensly hot. We are making but little head way. We are only 200 miles from the Equator. A large Barque has been in sight all day, but we could not get near enough to speak. Milton came running in while I was writing the above, exclaiming, oh! mama, if you want to see a grand sight, do come on deck and see the setting sun, and truly it was a magnificent sight to see the sun set behind the blue waters in these tropical regions. What gorgeous colors, what brilliant hues were cast over sea and sky, as he calmly sank from view. Well might the Psalmist say, "The Heavens declare the Glory of God".
Wednesday 23rd. It has rained all day. It is the first real rainy day we have had since we came to sea it is not pleasant but we are glad to see it come down never the less, for we want water for washing. It is not much like the rain water on land, being slightly brackish, and very hard so that we use a great quantity of soap and soda in order to wash with it at all. The Barque is still in view. some one said she might be a privateer, which frightened silly one's and children. It is two weeks since we came out of the north east trades, and we have been becalmed most of the time, and have only gained 500 miles in 14 days. But the wind is rising now, and they say we are running into the South east trades. We are all pleased to have wind again.
Thursday 24th. Wind strong and dead a-head. Having had it calm so long, we now feel the ship's motion very much. I have been very sea sick all day. As for Albert he is sea sick most of the time. The Barque keeps near us yet. Also another large ship has been near all day. Saw a number of nautilus. The sailors call the British man of war.
Friday Sept 25th. Winds high and very favorable. Last night was the roughest we have experienced yet, but we fear no ill. We have the same Protector here as on the land. We crossed the line of the Equator at noon to-day, and are now in the Southern Hemisphere. There is a custom among old sailors, which I am happy to learn is going out of practice, of playing off Neptune who, in heathen Mythology, was god of the sea, upon those who cross the line for the first time. The game is something like this, As vessels near the Equator, two of the old sailors, disguised and looking quite hideous pretend to have come up out of the deep, call themselves Neptune and his wife, and proceed to tar and shave all new comers. We have been told that we may expect a visit from them, this evening. We hope however, that our Captain will not allow any such low, rude, vulgar fun on board our craft.
Saturday 26th. Well, the rowdy scene is over. About 71/2 last evening, it was commenced, and old Neptune and his lady had come on board, and were shortly to begin the shaving process. They had provided a large cask of water with a board across the top upon which the candidates for shaving were to sit. First came the sailors voluntarily, and mounted their seat, whereupon, they were lathered with a mixture of tar and grease, and shaved with a sward. Then he was plunged into the cask, and kept there until he was thoroughly wet. After all the sailors went through this ridiculous operation the passengers were called upon. Two of them were green enough to submit, but some paid a fine instead, and others made very stern resistance. They carried the joke so far, as to take the Steward by force, a scuffle ensued. He was a little hurt, and a good deal angered. He says he will have satisfaction when he comes to land. He is sick today having got his throat hurt ion the affray. There is a deal of talk and excitement about this little affair, indeed it would be impossible for any one on land to imagine the excitement caused by every little trifle at sea and what wonder. Here we are in a miniature world of our own, quite shut out from communication with the outer world, and have no newspapers nor news of any sort, everything is old and stale even our provisions are getting stale. Water is stale. Bread is bad, and we are ever so far from land. But there are some pleasing sights even here. Such as glorious sunrises, bright Moonlight evenings, light fleacy clouds, ships in the distance, and the broad expanse of waters. But the latter is not so pleasant to one as it is to some. I admire their deep blue, but soon weary of gazing on their glittering surfaces. But even this monotony is preferable to seeing Neptune and his wife. Many blame the Captain for allowing him to appear here, because this is a passenger ship, and passengers should not be molested in this way. For any part I do not see any fun in such vulgarism.
Sunday September 27th. This has been the finest most comfortable, and enjoyable day, since we left Halifax. We are sailing steadly along, with a 5 knot breeze over the quarter, the sea is smoother than usual, and the weather not quite so hot. Albert is much better than usual, and the weather not quite so hot. Albert is much better than usual. We had service on deck this morning. What a comfort to feel that God accepts the hearts service, on the sea, as well as on the land.
A number of our company are not God fearing people, yet there are some praying souls for which His name be praised. The Lord help us to let our light shine before these ungodly ones, that we may exert an influence for their good.
Monday 28th. Still enjoying a fine steady breeze. Albert is again real sea sick. He has a very serious time of it indeed. I am growing weaker and thinner every day. I have no appetite, have not eaten bread for a whole month. It is so bad, I should have to be in a starving condition, to eat it. No wonder the passengers grumble about it. the Captain and several of the company have ever since we left seemed quite determined, to keep on our cruise with out calling at the cape. The passanges are going to send in a petition requesting the Captain to call and procure some good flour. They have threatened him with the law to get satisfaction, if he should not grant their request. I hope he will call. Albert is also anxious that he should. I feel as though it would do me a great deal of good, to get on shore for a little while. As this journal up to the present date, was intended solely for my dear sister, I have omited many things which I feared would not interest her, but feeling somewhat doubtful on this point, and as others may see it, I think I will from this time be a little minute in detail. Several passengers are keeping to send to their friends, a little journal.
We lost three of our passengers Saturday night, two cats and one small dog. The report of which caused quite a sensation on Sunday morning. The cats had become a nuisance, and the dog which belonged to the Captain, was no doubt thrown overboard out of spite. We had two dogs, when we started, one was owned by a passenger, and was a great pet, The Captain did not care to let this one live, and he, being one morning missing it was said that he had jumped over-board which no body beleived, and when it is now said that the two cats and the Captains dog, have gone over to seek the missing dog, every one smiles, as if they fully understand the joke.
Wednesday October 1st. Everything has been very dull and monotonous for the past few day.s We have not even enjoyed the sight of a whale, shark, or dolphin. It is just six weeks since we left Halifax, and we are only 4346 miles on our voyage. Our passage is likely to prove a tedious one, I often long for a rest, and think if the vessel would only keep still, I would be so glad. But she stops for no one, but keeps up one continual rolling and pitching, and tossing, which worries me, and I do not like it at all. I often feel real sea sick, and sick of the sea, indeed.
I may say, my stomach never feels just right. But now that we are across the line, and find the weather so much cooler, and more agreeable, we expect shortly to see all the invalids picking up, and getting strong. We have abundant reason for gratitude, that we are past the tropics without suffering any contagious desease. With so little of the much dreaded calms, and such continuous fine weather. We have not either been visited by one storm of thunder and lightening, though they are said to prevail in these parts of the sea. We feel that we are a very long distance from the land of our birth, not being in the same hemisphere. All those scenes of other days, though they are not freed from our minds, are lost from our view. We can even notice a change in the starry regions, the stars so familiar at home, are not seen now; We can no longer point at the north polar star, for it like many others; has gone in a northern horizon, Gone like old friends!
Shall we never see them more? echo alone answers, shall we? In place of the lost stars we have the beautiful Southern Cross, the Centaurs, and many others which show forth the handiwork of God. May our life be such, that when our labor is done, we shall enter our Fathers house on high and like those brilliant stars shine forever and ever.
Thursday Oct 2nd. We have had squalls of wind and rain all day: everyone has been greadily catching all the water he could, and I suppose we will soon have another general washing-day. As the cooks are always using the stoves, we are seldom able to heat water for washing, so we use it cold, and do quite a large wash with a little water. Of course the clothes thus washed do not look very nice, but this process cleanses a little, and keeps them from spoiling with mildew, as they would be sure to do if left unwashed. I missed it by not making dark shirts for the children. I got some dark calico from one of the ladies on board, and made two for Milton. They are very suitable.
Friday Evening 3rd. Spent this evening on deck, watching the light fleecy clouds, and the moon which appeared when it arose, like a large ball of fire. A large ship has been near all day. About Sunset she came very near us, then suddenly changed her course, and sailed away. There are some timid one's on board, who are frightened of their shadows, so to speak, and can hardly see a ship at sea without supposing her to be an enemy. These were glad to see her sail away.
Saturday 4th. Still in the Trades. Weather very fine. We are only about 200 miles from the Island of Trinidad, and hope to see it to-morrow.
Sunday afternoon 5th. We are blessed with another delightful Sabbath., Had service this morning for the first time in the Saloon below, as it was cool on deck. The appearance this afternoon of a large flock of white gulls reminded us that we are not very far from land, but our hopes of sighting it, are doomed for the present, to be disappointed in consequence of the wind having changed a few points, which obliges us to keep further out. So we are passing the Island of Trinidad, without coming in sight. We are distant from it about 150 miles west, according to the Captain's reckonings.
Monday Morning 6th. As soon as we woke this morning we saw a large ship coming towards us which soon hoisted her signal to speak us. She was from New York, bound to Adelaide Australia she is about 3 times as large as our vessel, is 71 days out, we are only 47 days. She was thirty days in the calms, we only fourteen days. some of our number had been very much dis-couraged at our slow progress. But they feel better about it now, when they learn that another ship had been so much longer out than we, and only came about the same distance it is impossible to describe the interest and excitement, if these scenes, but this one was rendered doubly so, on account of the ship coming too near us. The man at her wheel made such a mistake, that she came right alongside us, so close that one more wave would have driven her on to us, had they not seen their mistake in time to avert the danger .
Those who understood our true position were very much alarmed. One lady climbed on the house to jump when there should be a coalition.
Others were so horrified that they could not see anything, while some could not keep their eyes off of her, while others were happily ignorant of the imminent danger that threatened us. Evening. The New York ship has kept very close to us all day. We think it very strange, and some do not like her movements, and are afraid she is not friendly. We are just going out of the Trades. Thus far we have had what might be called a fair weather passage. It has been a little rough sometimes, but nothing that can be called a storm. But we are now nearing the stormy coast of Africa, and will in all probability meet rough weather.
Wednesday Oct 8th. When we awoke this morning, we found the ship's motion less disagreeable than usual, this change we attribute to the change of wind. It is directly after us and driving us along at the rate of 9 knots an hour. This is the first time we have had the wind aft. It has been most of the time, over the vessel beam. The New York Barque is still in sight, but is fast falling astern. It is just 7 weeks since we left Halifax. We are 5330 miles on our course. Hitherto the Lord has protected us. This evening, our brethern are assembled for prayer, in Granville Street Church, and as they promised to remember us while on the deep, we feel the grateful assurance that God, will here them, and conduct us safely to our port of destination.
Thursday October 9th. Last night I was awakened with a feeling of something cold and clammy about my person. For sometime I was so over come with sleep I could hardly guess what it was, but soon these strange sensations increased, until I was fully aroused to look for the cause, and found to our great discomfort and annoyance, that there was a leak in the roof of our room, and the falling rain was finding its way through it. Our state room is on the deck, and has no connection with any other, they being below, or 'between decks' as they call it. Except the three state rooms off the cabin, where the Captain and Mate, and their wives, the Second Mate, and the Doctor, are accommodated. The Galley's or cook houses, join the forecastle. Our room joins the Galleys aft separated only by a partition. One of the Galley's with our room, were made only for this trip. They were corked tight before we left Halifax, but we have been so long in the tropics, in the scorching sun, that the wood has got shrunk, but the rain so swelled it, that it is now quite tight again. The rain continued all through the day and it is quite dreary. I have been reading one of Dickens's works, most of the day. We bought his full set when we left Halifax, to amuse us on the passage, but I don't like them as well as some people, except his 'American Notes' which is very fine especially that part which describes his voyage to America, and return to England.
Friday Eve Oct 10th. Incessant rain for the last 48 hours. The wind is blowing almost a gale from the North East driving us along at the rate of 10 knots an hour. The vessel rolls terribly, as the angry waves dash with all their fury at her sides. They say the waves would run very high but for the continual beating of the rain, which keeps them down. We are now down to 30 degrees South Latitude. It is just cool enough for comfort. The Cask water has purified itself, and is now quite good.
Saturday 11th. Still raining. Last night was somewhat boisterous. It was what the sailors call a dirty night. The ship rolled and pitched about dreadfully, so that we could not sleep for holding ourselves in bed. Wind still very high. This suits the sailors. It makes times lively. WE have made 220 miles in the last 24 hours. We have seen today two beautiful large birds. I believe they are Albatross. They are immense birds, have large brown wings, and snow white breast. We also saw a few Cape Pigeons. The children were much pleased to see those beautiful seabirds, and watched them with great interest from our window. We have not seen any Whale, Shark, or Dolphin since we crossed the line. The wind was so high, last night, that the low top sail and top gallant sail were carried away.
Sunday Oct 12th Very dark and stormy all last night. They were obliged to take in nearly all the sails. Oh! how the vessel rolled from side to side, how long the night seemed, and the morning brought no change. The rain continuing, and the wind still blowing wildly, it was so rough that it was impossible to have meeting. About noon it suddenly became worse the wind chopped round to the South East, and a terrible squall struck the sails all aback, and here took place such a scene of confusion as cannot be described. Dishes, trunks, boxes, baskets, men, women and children, were jostled about in the greatest confusion. This was just at dinnertime. I went up to my room as soon as I could, after the squall struck us, and the way the vessel reeled about was truly frightful. A heavy sea breeze over the Gun rail, and everything on deck was literally floating. Two Puncheons of fresh water, just caught, broke from their fastenings, and rolled about from side to side, with such force as to break the rail. Two of the sailors were out on the jib Boom, went down with it into the sea, and were for a little, lost from sight, as the ship plunged into the water. I saw one of them soon-after. He was shivering in his wet clothes. As soon as the squall had abated, I ventured on deck, and Oh what a dreary prospect met my view. The sails were all hauled down, and the masts and rigging looked deserted. Two of the oats were inverted, resting on the forward and after houses, serving as a temporary store-house for our dried cod-fish. During this confusion, the fish broke loose, and tumbled to the decks in broken heaps, which were soon carried in every direction by the water, making it dangerous for anyone to move about. The sky was still dark, and the rapidly rolling clouds threatened us with more squalls. They say that had this one met us in the night, the masts would in all probability, have been carried away. These squalls continued for some hours, but late in the day, the storm abated, and the sun looked lovingly, and smilingly down upon us, like a true friend in distress, but the seas still ran very high. This is the 4th day of incessant storm of wind and rain, and we would be thankfull to see fine weather.
Monday Oct 13th. We have had some squalls to-day but they were not of a very serious nature. The seas are still high. Wind west, which is quite fair for us. During the long rain, we caught over 500 gallons of water. Our vessel has been for the last 24 hours steadily moving on her course at the rate of 7 miles an hour. Several of the ladies are sick to-day, as is usual, after any undue excitement. The talk is all about the last storm, and all seem to agree that going to sea, is much pleasanter to talk about, than experience. Alas! how few among our number realize the goodness of our heavenly Father, in watching over us, during the storm, and delivering us from threatened danger. I was to-day astonished to learn that last night after the storm ceased its fury, several young men expressed their joy at a game of cards. May God have mercy upon their poor souls, and not sink the ship for their wickedness.
Tuesday Eve Oct 14th. Very calm and fine today. There is not wind enough to fill the sails. A ship has appeared quite near to-day. She looks very like the one we spoke from N. York.
Oct 16th Thursday. This morning we passed very near the Island 'Tristan de Cuna' but could not see it for the thick cloud of mist that hung between us and it, though we were only 17 miles from it. We have now spent 8 weeks without seeing land and we naturally grow weary of the dull monotony of a life on the ocean wave.
Oct 17th Friday. We are now progressing favorably. The wind is fair, but the weather is becoming very cold, and they talk of putting up a stove in the after cabin. The talk is that if the Captain can manage to keep him-self and his wife comfortable, that he will care but little what becomes of the others. Up to this time, we have spent most of the time during the day on deck, but it is much too cold now, and we are obliged to go below, which is not so pleasant. There has been a deal of sickness on board ever since we left. It was thought that they would all raly, when we should come into colder latitudes, but there is not much change yet. The little Doctor has his hands full, to attend to all the calls by night and day. There has not been a day since we sailed that some one was not complaining.
Saturday Oct 18th. The Captain issued orders yesterday that no firearms should be used on board during the passage, and as he is Captain he must be obeyed; so instead of shooting the birds as formerly, they have been trying to catch them with a hook and line. this has been the amusement of the day. Thy managed with great skill to catch one and bring him on board which caused no little excitement. Men, women, and children all flocked around to see the great wonder. It is a huge Albatross, a pretty bird. It's breast is pure white. It's body is somewhat larger than the swan. It's wings are immensely long, of a dark brown color. When spread out they measured 7 feet 2 inches from tip to tip. It is very tame and seems quite at home among us. We have put it into a cask. It is wholly a seabird and makes its bed on the waves. It cannot walk nor raise itself to fly from the deck. Its great body seems too heavy to be borne up by its slender legs.
Monday Oct 19th. Had meeting yesterday in the Saloon. The weather is still cold, so that we require a much clothing as in Mid Winter in Nova Scotia. We did not expect this, hence we are not prepared for it and should not be in this plight at all, but the Captain persists in running down to the extreme Latitude of 46o. His excuse for doing this is, that he will better winds, but it is very hard to suffer with the cold, especially for delicate females who are not used to suffering it. We have it on good authority that Passenger ships from England never go below 40o (The law would not allow the to do so) and so they have find warm weather all the way. This is why every one whom we saw, who had made this passage, told us that we should have fine summer weather all the way, and that instead of wanting a stove, we would want to get as far as possible from one. Therefore, we have no stove, save a small one in the Cabin, which does not do the passengers much good, and so we have to suffer with the cold. We are sailing nearly 11 knots an hour, they say, to-day. They kept the Albatross til to-day, when the owner killed him, and kept his large wings to remember him by. A distant sail appeared to-day. It was a welcome sight even though we could not get within speaking distance. She is on the same course we are, as are all out here. All Eastern ships on their return, go by Cape Horn.
Tuesday 20th. We have been during the past 4 or 5 days, running from 9 to 11 knots an hour, with the wind over the quarter. Those who are not seasick, have great appetites. We have no loaf bread now. The flour is better for biscuit and cakes, indeed it is the only way we can eat it at all. We have fresh canned meat 2 or 3 times a week. This meat is quite fresh and good, though it has been cooked and canned 8 years. Our potatoes are now very scarce, and we have to use them very sparingly. How I would like a dinner of fresh vegetables and apples for dessert, like we used to have at home. Ah! me, the comforts we have at sea are few indeed, compared to what we enjoyed on land. The poor sailors have a rough time and enjoy but few comforts or luxuries.
Tuesday Evening. A Tragedy. While we were at prayers this evening, all quiet below, the mate came to the passage, and called to the Captain, in breathless haste, to come on deck. When the reading of the Scriptures was suddenly interrupted by a noise of loud talking and scuffling overhead. While waiting in fear wondering greatly what could have happened, the Mate came down, followed by one of the sailors in irons. They hurried him to the Saloon, and locked him up for the night in the little dark, damp cold storeroom in the forward part of the ship. It was some time before quiet was restored, when the worship was concluded. Various were the opinions expressed by the passengers, but the most part sympathised with the sufferer, and expressed their abhorrence of so arbitrary an act of power on the part of the Captain, more especially when they learned what the offence was. It seems that the Captain had asked this sailor a question, which he promptly and correctly answered, but without saying Sir. For this unpardonable neglect, he was ordered to go aloft, during an extra watch, to scrape down, and slush the whole of the main mast. He went and worked from 4 o'clock till after dark, when he came down having finished all but a small portion of it, which he said he would do in the morning. He was immediately ordered back to finish it, but he refused to go, for which he was hand cuffed, and immurred as above stated.
Wednesday Oct 21st. It was very calm and pleasant this morning. The sun came out bright and clear, and soon melted the little scum of ice made on deck during the night. This morning the prisoner was offered his liberty on condition that he would go aloft and do as he had been ordered which he refused to do. So they took him out of the lower Dungeon, and locked him up in the coal hole, where he has not room to stand erect. They have given him bread and water. A prisoners diet. There is a sick lady on board, who was very much frightened at seeing a sailor in irons, and she is much worse to-day from such a fright. The Captain's wife seems to feel bad about the affair it is however no new sight to her, as she has sailed with the Captain a good deal, and saw, as she says, 6 men at one time put in irons. We are 9 weeks out to-day, and are 8500 miles from Halifax.
Thursday 22nd. The prisoner, and the Captain come to some terms last evening, by which he was released. He with many others thinks he was badly used, and he vows he will have law when he gets to land. Not with standing the urgent request of the passengers to call at the Cape, the Captain seems determined to keep on his course, without calling anywhere. The talk about the ship is that he would most likely loose nearly all his sailors, by desertion should he put into Port. The talk is they dislike him very much, and the further talk is that he is a very hard exacting man.
Wednesday October 28th. We have just passed through another storm which lasted three day's, I have had another attack of sea-sickness and consequently my journal has been quite neglected. Last Friday evening, about sun-set, while we were on deck, watching the spoutings of a great whale our attention was directed to a bank of cloud, low in the west, which we all thought indicated a storm and on Saturday it came in real earnest, and blew furiously all night, so that there was but little sleep or rest, on account of the great rocking of the vessel. About 3 o'clock in the morning it raged madly, and the great waves rolled over the sides of our ship, as if they were determined to engulph her. It was very cold and snowed and hailed all night. About 4 o'clock I arose and looked out of my window, I never saw so much phosphorus before, the water was bright and sparkling with it. I also observed large flocks of birds in our wake, quite unlike any seen before. They were about the size of a blue-jay, their breast and the under part of their wings, and pure white, the back and upper part of their wings were very dark brown. They are called whale birds. The storm continued so that we could not have meeting on Sunday. While we were at dinner on Sunday the storm became much worse so that the dishes, as well as other moveable things danced right briskly. After dinner I came up to my room, one of the woman came with me to watch the raging of the elements. We stood for some time in the passage, and looked at the waves, as in their wild fury they rolled and tossed one after another. Now and then they would lap over the vessels sides, and at times the deck would be 3 feet deep in water. After we became weary of this scene, we went into my stateroom and I read aloud that sermon of Spurgeon's on "The Rock that is higher than I". After this we went below to the saloon and we read the Bible in turn for a long time, till I became so sea-sick, that I was compelled to return to my room and lie down. I was very sea-sick indeed. On Monday morning I was somewhat better, yet the unrest occasioned by the storm and the sea-sickness combined, caused me to feel very weak and lanquid. The gale continued untill Tuesday evening, making just three days from its commencement, and there was but little sleep or rest while it lasted. I suppose the men think the woman great cowards, for when it storms they try to make them think it is calm, but as my room is near the sailors on watch, I usually overhear enough of the conversation of the experienced seaman to form a pretty correct idea of the state of things, and therefore I am prepared to say that this has been the most dangerous time that we have experienced, but thanks to Him, who roles the raging sea, we are yet safe. It is calm once more, but the weather is not clear. These are stormy waters and changes may be expected. It is very cold, the men on the watch are ordered to keep a sharp look out for icebergs, we very much regret that the Captain will go so far South, and keep us in such cold lattitudes, when we are not at all prepared for it.
Friday Oct 30th. It was calm and dull all day yesterday, so that we made but two knots an hour, untill after dark when the wind began to ride nearly ahead, and blew very strong till 2 o'clock. It howled and whistled through the rigging most piteously, while our floating house tossed and rolled, and rocked and pitched, and trembled like a leaf in the wind. It was with difficulty we could keep in bed and to sleep was out of the question, until the breaking of day, when the wind lulled away to a dead calm, and now while I am writing there is not wind enough to fill the sails, and they are flapping to and fro. And thus is our life, made up of storms and calms. It is foggy and drizzly. It is the first fog we have seen on our passage. We heard the sound of land-birds to-day which leads us to suppose we are near some Island. It is so cold that nearly all the women have to stay in bed, but I cannot content myself to stay in bed in the day time. So I have to suffer cold. They have just drawn in a piece of kelp 90 feet long. It is a tubular vine, having large bunches of fruit, shaped like, and resembling small pears. It has also some handsome little shells sticking to it in various places. It is supposed to have floated from some iceberg of the Southern regions, and shows evidently that we are not far from these dreaded monsters. The orders from headquarters is often renewed to keep a strict watch for them.
Saturday Oct 31st. The day is somewhat gloomy, thick fog and no wind. It has been a week since we saw the sun. It is very cold. Dick one of the best sailors, is laid by with acute rheumatism. I have been thinking much today about the friends at home, and remember that it is just one year since Sister Nellie died.
Monday Morning Nov 2nd. Albert has pretty well recovered from his sea-sickness at last, had service twice yesterday. The day was very calm with thick fog. We only went about 1 mile an hour. This morning at break of day, the wind again sprung up, and now blows quite lively. The Mate says it is going to blow in earnest this time. One of the women took sick this morning with Influenza and sore throat.
Monday Eve just after prayers this evening, we heard something fall very heavy on deck, just over our heads. We were at first very much alarmed for we feared something serious had happened. To add to our fears, a report was raised that there was a man overboard, but this was fortunately not true. The men rushed to the deck to see what was wrong, and found that the studding sail boom had broken fair into in the middle, from a sudden squal, and had fallen to the deck with great force, making the noise that so terrified us. This morning, while hoisting the fore-sail, the second Mate strained his back, so that he is now laid-by under the Doctor's hands. Dick is still very ill; These two hands are very much missed. The Captain was obliged to go to work today. This is the first time since we sailed that he has condescended to do any thing like work.
Tuesday Eve Nov 3rd. The wind blew a hurricane about 2 o'clock this morning, which lasted about an hour. We have had high winds all day and the seas are getting up to enormous proportions. They roll over the rails unbidden and sometimes there is as much as 2 or 3 feet of water on deck, and there is often great danger of being washed overboard. The Sailors have to be very careful, but they appear to understand it. I was quite amused to see one of the m spring up into the rigging, when he saw a sea coming. By so doing, he saved himself from a good wetting. Of course the women cannot go out at all in this weather. The gale is still increasing and they say, we are going to have another bad night, but I feel that we are in the hands of the Lord. He cannot do wrong with us. A few men and women are sitting up with a lady, who is very much frightened. They have agreed to stay with her until midnight, when it is hoped there will be a change. We have tried to calm her, but she is much excited, and trembles like a leaf; Tis now 11 o'clock. We are going to retire, trusting in God, that come what may all will be well with us.
Wednesday Morning Nov 4th. We are still alive. Some were almost sure that before this we would be swallowed up by the angry waves, but God has been better to us than our fears praise to his name. It was indeed cold, wild and stormy. The wind howled dismally through the rigging. The seas broke over with such fury, that fears were entertained by more than passengers, that houses, Masts, and rigging would all be swept away. There is a good deal of talk below, about our especial danger, in this stormy weather; our temporary room being on deck; and they often speculate upon the probability of a heavy sea taking our house with us with all within it far into the sea. Our room is very pleasant in fine weather, but when it storms, it is much more comfortable below. So in fine weather they envy us, but when it storms they pity, and say they would not be in our place for anything.
Thursday Nov 5th. Yesterday afternoon the wind lulled, and it began to rain. I caught some water, and washed my clothes, and put to soak till a fine day. It is too wet and rough to dry them now. At mignight the wind became very light, but the sea's still run high. The vessel rolled very much all night, and we felt as though we would like to be lashed to our bunks. We had to hold on so constantly, that to sleep was an utter impossibility.
Friday Morning Nov 6th. After the rain ceased yesterday, the weather very very cold, with severe squalls of hail, and strong wind. I had some curisity to get the best possible view of the heaving tumultuous sea's which were raging so vehmently. So Albert, who is now quite a sailor, helped me to the after part of the ship. It would be preposterous for me to attempt to cross the deck alone this stormy weather. The scene was indeed grand beyond description, and we stood looking at it until I was most perished with the cold. Oh what a wild and dreary yet magnificent sight. The foaming waves piled up mountains high, which seemed as they rolled and tossed one after another, like hungry monsters eager to swallow us up. Sometimes as they neared us, they seemed mad and furious, and then suddenly melted away into foam. Then others would dash furiously over the vessels rail, threatening to destroy all before them. Some careless ones, not on a good look out for these unwelcome visitors, have been rudley thrown by their great force from side to side, and thought themselves quite fortunate to get clear with only a few bruises, and a thorough drenching. While we gaze upon these grand scenes, how vividly comes to the mind the words of the Psalmist, "They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters, these see his wonders in the deep': and again we turn for a moment, to observe the labored movements of the ship, flung at times, on her side into the waves, with the ends of her lower yards dipping into the water, then suddenly rising, and before you have time to think of anything, she is down on the other side; then another wave comes rolling up, and she rises trembling and thus struggles on. Large flocks of Seabirds hover high, they never seem so high as when it storms. The winds and the sea grow wilder, and seem more tempestuous. At 9 p.m. we have prayers in the Saloon. Then some retire; but some more anxious ones linger, as if waiting for some great event, and others try to comfort and console the frightened lady, who is still very much excited, and her terror is considerably increased by a great sea that broke over, and came down into the saloon among us with a rush, and sound as of many waters, which did indeed seem ominous of evil. Some talked much and wondered what would be the end of all this; and others talked as if they did not feel very pleasant towards the Captain for bringing them into such cold stormy latitudes. About 11 o'clock we left them and retired to our room. They sat up late, some far into the night, others till the dawning of day; but we felt as safe in bed, though we suffered much with the cold, especially our feet, for it is almost impossible to keep them dry this rough weather, and there is no convenient way to get warm and dry but to turn in, which we are often obliged to do, when it is hours some times before we can feel the warm blood circulating through the veins. Were we at all comfortable at such times we would not mind the storms outside. This was a fearful night and still the gale continues. While I am writing heavy seas come over the vessel, dashing spray furiously all over our houses. A passenger has just been in to tell us of the events of the night and morning. The vessel rolled so desperately, that every movable thing, on the deck, in the cabin, and Saloon, was set in rapid motion. One person below was violently thrown out of bed. The cabin floor was flooded with water. the Captains wife, who was lying on the lounge, was thrown clear across the Cabin, and was after sometime extricated from tumbling chairs, and dishes and the table that was broken from its fastenings in the floor, and like everything else was dancing like mad about the room. The Carpenter and several others came near being washed overboard, but fortunately escaped with a drenching. One Father of all the Sea's came in filling to the rail (some affirm that the water was even above the rail) rushing aft with such violence, that using my informer's own language 'knocked one of the water closets all to smithereens".
The Captain and another man had to be lashed to the wheel all night, no man would dare to stand there unfastened, neither could one man alone manage the wheel in such a gale, though they say in ordinary weather our shop steers as easy as a boat. Another sailor is sick this morning, making three of the hands that are laid by now when they are most needed. What is to become of us if the men continue long at this rate of getting sick and the weather does not get milder, is a question that is often asked, but we know that God can take care of us, therefore we will trust Him. Confusious increase even while I write, a tremendous sea has just carried away the carpenter's bench. This bench was made fast to the side of our house, just under our window. Well, Well they say our house must go next, but Albert thinks that when that goes, the whole concern will sink. Indeed he does not seem to have much fears about it, as he saw it when it was constructed, and he thinks it very firm. Ah me! down goes a rolling sea, flooding the saloon below. This last sea caused the vessel to roll over so far on her side, that the Mate says, had she been deeply laden, she would never have righted again. They all speak well of the sea going qualities of the little brig Emulous. She is so light that she easily bounds over the billows and still bears gallantly and proudly onwards.
Friday afternoon, About noon the storm began to cease its rage, and the wind is now quite light. Things begin once more to look like living. The men are hoisting sails. The Carpenter is fixing up a work bench. Fire is burning briskly in the Galley, and judging from the order, they are preparing something nice for tea. Those who have stayed in bed during the storm, are begining to show themselves, and all begin to look lively again, the frightened lady feels better again. She like a good many others are very brave when there is nothing to fear. The last excitement was caused by the appearance of a large school of porpoise, following in the wake of the ship. These are much more beautiful than those we saw in Northern lattitudes. They were all white, except the back, which was brown, and as they swiftly darted through the water, they reflected a light green shade, very pretty. They tried very hard in vain to harpoon one, as the premium of one dollar was offered for the first one that should be caught. Albert took the children out to see them and they were much delighted to see their rapid progress, and also enjoy the open air. We have been like prisoners since Sunday, five days. The sky is still dark and ominous of bad weather, but look confidently to Him who rules the raging sea's and like the Psalmist will say "I will trust in the Lord".
Sat Nov 7th. Winds moderate last night, and we all enjoy the change very much. It was very conducive to the rest and repose, which so many of us needed. When we awoke quite refreshed this morning, the first sound that greeted u was the pattering of falling rain. For about an hour it came down in torrents, then the sun shone out brightly, and it was really delightful. This fine morning is a real treat, the like of which, we have not enjoyed for a whole fortnight. As there are oasis all through the deserts, even so there are little sunny spots, or oasis all through life. This infuses new life into us all, and every one seems in excellent spirits. A great amount of work was done this morning, in the way of washing, airing beds, overhauling boxes, and trunks, and there was one of aunt Chloe's general clearing up times. All worked with a will as if it did them good, which I have no doubt it did. It is so cold, that we cannot wash in cold water, as we did in the Tropics, so we make a raid upon the Galley to heat the water, often greatly, to the inconvenience and annoyance of the Cook's. At these times the men lend a helping hand, they heat the water stretch lines to the Masts and standing rigging, on which they pin the clothes to dry, and render themselves generally useful, and really they are quite a convenience on wash days. The appearance which our little brig presented this morning, with the quantity of garments of all description, thus suspended to dry, was really quite amasing. When the men had finished their part of the work, they amused themselves by catching birds. They hooked 3 Cape Pigeons, and after we had a good look at the little beauties they tied a red string around their necks, and let them fly away. They kept one about 2 hours and then the novelty over, they took pity on him, and let him go. He seemed glad to be free from us, and quickly flew away, and was soon out of sight. We are steadily moving on our long trackless way. Made 162 miles to-day but the wind has changed somewhat, and we are obliged to go farther South. If it were North we would all be glad. It was so mild and fair this morning, that we flattered ourselves that we would now have favourable winds, to soon take us further east, where we hope to find the weather warmer, but it is again cold O so cold.
The talk about our little world now, is chiefly concerning the great storm we have safely passed. The men are pretty well worn out. Dick is much missed as he is one of the best sailors on board. He says it was a dreadful storm, and we have been in great danger. The Mate, who is fond of high winds, as any true jacktar, that ever ploughed the main, said to one of the men last evening (they were standing near my door so I overheard) that he did not see how we were to get through this bad wether and get the ship safe to land, especially if the men keep sick. Usually when it is rough he says to the ladies, O this is fine weather, nice breeze and then laugh at them for asking if it wasn't rough, but now he is free to admit even to the women that is rough and dangerous, and the Captain too, cannot disguise this fact, but has been telling some of the women what a dreadful night they spent. He says it was fearfully dark, and boisterous, that they were half blinded by the pelting hail and driving snow; that at one time it was so rough, and wild, that he really feared that the deck would be swept clear of both masts and houses. Some say, it was a providential thing that the 2nd Mate was sick, for the Captain had to stand watch instead, a thing which he never does, when he can avoid it. One woman who is an old traveller told me that she went to her bed with her clothes on, so as to be ready in case of an emergency. This is the lady who is always looking on the dark side of things. She talks a great deal about taking the boats if anything should happen. Just as though our little boats would live on these waters. She said she made up her mind last night what she would do if she found the vessel sinking, and she saw no change to escape. Her plan was to sit herself up in her stateroom, roll herself up in her bunk, and go down in the way. Another said she did not sleep a wink all night. She was sure we would all be to the bottom of the ocean, or be food for the fish before morning. One woman, who is openly irreligious affirmed that she slept well all night. She said she thought she might just as well go down asleep as awake. I very much doubt her. She evidently wants to appear brave. Another is loud in her praises of our little Brig and attributes all our safety to her good qualities. She says she really regards her as a true friend, and she feels an affection for her. Since she has proved herself such a deliverer in so great a storm. Another says, she will be thankful, if we arrive safely at our port of destination, and no doubt we will then soon forget the dangers we have passed through. And so will it be at last, if we are so happy as to enter the Port of eternal rest, we shall not care much for all the trials and privations we have suffered during life; but if we have been faithful to our God, we shall meet our reward and on a green and flowery mount, our weary souls shall sit, and with transporting joy recount, the labors of our feet.
Sunday afternoon Nov 8th. It is foggy and very cold. Wind light but fair. We have made 1200 miles since last Sunday. I have thought much to-day about my dear friends, and a quite Sabbath at home.
Monday Nov 9th. Still calm. Rainy, with a heavy swell. I have been making a cap for Freddie. He has 2 hats and 1 cap overboard and as there are no shops very near, I have to make him one instead of buying. Another one of the hands has given up work, and is down with Enysipelas in his feet, brought on by continual exposure to cold and wet. The ship is now so weakly manned, that the share holders, and even passengers are obliged to stand watch, at times. It is even difficult for a sail to be raised, without calling upon the New Zealand String the name given them by the Mate.
Wednesday Afternoon Nov 11th. Cold, cold, but bright and sunny. We are sailing along with a 7 knot breeze; but gathering clouds seem portentious of another storm. Two ladies are very sick from cold; and no wonder, it is a greater marvel that we are not all under the Doctor's hands. If we were half as much exposed to cold and wet on the land, it would no doubt cause our death. We saw four whales this morning. They were about 200 feet long, were within 50 yards of the ship. They spouted at a tremendous rate. All seemed much amused at their movements. We have been just 12 weeks at sea, and though we have learned in a measure to adapt ourselves to circumstances, yet we think that "A Life on the Ocean Wave" is much more romantic for Poets to sing about, than to experience. We are not sorry that we are so far on our way. The thousands of miles are growing beautifully less.
Instead of saying, so many miles from Halifax, as heretofore, we now count the miles to N.Z. At a late meeting of the Company it was decided to go to Wellington instead of Dunedin, as they talked of at first. This change is made partly on account of the lack of hands, and also to gain warmer latitudes during the remainder of the passage. The distance now to Wellington is 4800 miles; 2000 from the West coast of Australia. 400 from St Paul's Island. Although there has been a great amount of sickness, on board yet the greater part are becoming fat and hearty now. A few exceptions there are, who are pale and wan. Going to sea for one's health is all very fine to talk about. The young men have formed themselves into what they term the Bachelor's Club. They meet every evening at 71/2 o'clock for reading, debating, and a general good time. They are very exclusive. No one is allowed to enter the room but members of the Club. Their rules are so peculiar to prohibit a great many from joining them, who might wish to do so. They hold their meetings in the largest stateroom in the ship owned by 4 members of said Club. Whether good or evil will come of this Club is a question. But one thing I know, some of the passengers, who are very much opposed to card playing, whether for amusement or otherwise; are exceedingly glad that it is not carried on at all now in the saloon as it used to be to their great annoyance, often far into the night, before this Club was formed. The Club room is the place for all such amusements now and we hope it will continue so. The ladies are becoming very industrious, since the saloon is rid of this horrible nuisance, we all gather around the table there in the evenings with our work, while someone reads aloud. Albert often attends to this part of the entertainment. We form quite an agreeable little party, and we have quite a nice time. We call this Mrs Gatherall's Sewing Circle. We sew, knit, crochet, braid, tat and embroider, and when the reading ceases, do what is usually done in such circles on the land, all talk at once. I have just finished braiding a roundabout of scarlet all wool delaine, braided with white. The pattern is grapes and leaves. One lady has braided a grass cloth suite and all are busy about something nice, pretty or useful; indeed, I think if we continue long a sea, working at this rate we might have enough find things, for quite a fancy fair. During our first month at sea, but a few had much ambition to work; but now having before us the prospect, by the blessing of God, of being on land again before many weeks, we are becoming more industrious. We talk less of our voyage, and more about the land we are seeking.
Thursday Afternoon Nov 12th. Squally last night. The wind is now blowing furiously, and the sailors predict a bad night. Three rainbows were seen this morning. They are very beautiful, but cause the sailors to take warning. Another sailor sick. Funny Irish Bill, He raises much blood, and fears are entertained, that the poor fellow will never see an earthly port. A lady is also sick from inflammation, indeed we have now quite a floating hospital. 3 ladies, are very sick, and numbers are not far behind. The Doctor attributes much of our ill-health, to the unwholesomeness of the flour. It this be so, the party who so grossly cheated and deceived us, has caused us much suffering, and they are very guilty. They have done us much evil; and wil will say as Paul did of the Coppersmith, "The Lord reward him".
Friday Nov 13th. Wind blowing a gale since yesterday afternoon, with squalls of snow, hail, and rain. It was very dark and dismal last night. The upper-top-sail and Royal were carried away. The upper top-sail was fastened by a chain, about the size a horse chain, which parted in the squall, and they have been all day repairing damages, sustained by the strong winds. And yet another sailor sick which makes more work for the New Zealand String. Albert has a cold. He went to the Galley, yesterday during the gale, to get a pair of socks which he had hung there to dry, and on his return was met by a large wave and was thoroughly drench.
Saturday Afternoon 14th. The gale lasted until last night, but now it is quite calm. Storms and calms have followed each other in quick succession, during the past month and I think I never more fully realized the Goodness and Mercy of God, in deliverance from dangers. During the storm's now I feel quite calm as I trust in God and meditate on the many and precious promises. And like the Psalmist I can say I will both lay me down and sleep, for thou Lord only makest me to dwell in safety. I know that God is above the storm. He is mightier than the most angry waves, My confidence is in Him, and not in man. He has thus far guided us safely over the waters and if He pleases, he can bring us safely to the desired haven, but should he determine otherwise, all will be well. Heaven is a much country better than the land we seek. Thank God for the blessed hope which the Gospel inspires, a hope full of immortality and eternal life.
Sunday Eve Nov 15th. We have had a delightful sunny day, and have swiftly been borne along, with a gentle fair wind at the rate of 8 miles an hour. Once more we found dry decks, which was a great treat. We are leaving the ice-berg regions, and feel the air a little milder. The sky looks more peaceful and screne, than it has done for weeks. Despite the storms and calms, we have made over 1100 miles a week, for the last three weeks. should the next 3 be as favourable, next Sabbath fortnight, we shall be able to dine in Wellington. Had service this morning as usual. This afternoon A and I have sung, and read and conversed together, upon the Goodness of God. It is a good thing to wait upon the Lord to talk of His mercies and sing praises to His name. One of the sick ladies is much worse. The Doctor is very attentive, and requesting that she might be conveyed the Cabin, where she will be much more comfortable, she was carried upon a bed. Eight men took hold, and carried her safely up the stairway into the Cabin. It was a sad sight. The sick ones, are a little better.
Tuesday Eve Nov 17th. I was hindered from writing yesterday, by a severe attack of cramp in the stomach, which made me quite ill.
Two far distant, for distant sails appeared yesterday, and as it has been a long time since we have seen a fellow traveler on these sea's - we were much interested in them. They are company for us, and watching them from our decks, help to relieve the monotony of sea-life, which is spite of all our efforts to overcome, we often feel very much. There is usually some news afloat, concerning wind or weather, health or sickness, or danger, birds or fishes, sun or shade, moonlight or darkness etc. etc. But the wind being favourable and moderate with no remarkable changes for the past few days, we have had an unusually quiet time. We did hope that those ships would by by this morning within speaking distance, but when we arose we found they had kept their distance off about the same as when they first appeared. We suppose them to be whalers. Some on board are becoming desperately weary of sea-life especially is this noticeable among the men. Ladies have much more to take up their attention, as sewing, kniting, and various sorts of fancy work, which is more like home life. Much reading while on the water, is generally beleived to be injurous. I think it has been an injury to Albert, and he has been obliged to be more moderate, and indulge less in that pleasure. The time seems long to him. He read a little to me today from Pictures in Italy, by Dickens which was very interesting and instructive. While he reads I work. I am making a pair of square pillow cases, with a ruffle around the. I also am engaged at times, in kniting a sofa pillow, the caterpillar stitch which I learned at the pleasant sewing circle in Canard Street.
It is much admired here, and several are going to learn the stitch.
Wednesday Eve Nov 18th. We hail with gladness another new moon. We have learned to regard the moon as the sailors friend, to lighten his way, when the sun has disappeared. The moon as well as the sun appears differently here form home. The moon is at the North of us, and when the first quarter appears it is curved just opposite to what I ever saw it before which looks odd enough. The vessels disappeared and we are alone again. We ran away from one of them, and the other sailed away from us. About 11 o'clock this morning our attention was directed to innurrerable schools of black fish, and porpoise.
We cannot fail to be interested in them, because they acentually persage a storm of wind and their course indicates the direction. These were visable from the vessel westward, as far as the eye could reach.
The shape of the black fish is like a rig but much larger, they are often called sea-figs. We are just 13 weeks out and are likely to complete a fair passage after all. It is only 2900 miles to Wellington, and we confidently hope to place our feet on terra-firm e'er this moon shall have run her race.
Thursday Morning Nov 19th. Weather a little warmer. We now venture on deck by wrapping up well. The sun is shining brightly and is very calm. One of those they call weather breeders, the officers of the ship have been watching for a calm, in order to scrape off the barnacles, which cluster, about the stern and along above the copper about the ster and along the sides of the ship and tend greatly to impede progress. They are now engaged at this very dangerous operation, standing upon a staging fastened by ropes to the ship.
Friday evening Nov 20th. Having now been three months at sea, and having been borne over the Atlantic, and the storm troubled waves of the Indian Ocean, and now having fairly entered the great Pacific, we are quite accustomed to nearly all the scenes and dangers incident to sea-life. We have happily lost the nausea of sea-sickness and acquired sundry nautical accomplishments, so that now we are in a position to appreciate the grandeur and sublimity of the scenes, presented to our view - in the ever changing sea and sky, and can see beauty in the foaming billows, and sparkling waves, and can hear music in the wind and old oceans roar, and now take quite an interest to all that pertains to our floating home, the good little vessel, which for the last 24 hours has smoothly and swiftly senddith along, with well filled sails, before a fair wind. Two find days in succession have infused new life into us all and we admire a praise the Goodness of God, as displayed in the heavens above, and the sea beneath and around us.
Saturday Eve Nov 21st. Spent sometime on deck, admiring the glories of the setting sun, and the lovely tinted clouds. But daylight fading. Returned to my room, and gave the children a good Saturday nights washing, and having seen them fairly overcome, by "tired matures sweat restorer", I now take my pencil to record the chief event of this day. Early this morning a very large ship appeared quite near. Our Captain hoisted a flag to speak her, and she rapidly bore down towards us. We all flocked to the decks to see and hear. For at sea this is one of the most important events that happen. Spy-glasses of all dimensions, were used freely on both sides, so that we obtained a fair view of each other. Her name is Red Rover. She is 82 days from London, bound for Melbourne, Australia.
She was formerly owned by the Americans, and during the late war, was chased by the steam ship Alabama Queen of the Southern Privatiers, but she showed her superior sailing qualities by outrunning this deadly enemy. She was after sold the British and is now engaged on the Australian trade. We are pleased to find that the reckonings of the two Captains, varies only 2 miles in Longitude which gives us confidence in our Captain as a navigator. The day has been very find, and the winds from the Australian coast soft, and gentle. From which we are distant about 450 miles. Lat 44o 20 Long 119o30.
Nov 22nd Sunday afternoon. The wind has been favourable during the past week, we have made 1105 miles. The sick are quite convalescent. Dick has recovered, and is again on watch. Bill is not dead, but is still able to sing us a comic Irish song, and keep all hands laughing with his funny yarns. The other sick sailors are also around again. We have now almost a clean bill of health, and the little Doctor himself is beginning to get fat; though I sometimes fancy he looks lonely, and wonder if he is not thinking about his mate when he took but 3 days before we sailed, and then left her in Nova Scotia. I admire his plan in coming to see the country, and find a situation, before bringing her. As is usually the case, we find ourselves talking more about home today, it being Sunday, than we do on weekdays. I wonder how many more Sundays we will spend at sea. Should the wind continue fair we shall soon reach our destination, and then we hope to worship God again in the Sanctuary.
Monday Nov 23rd. Still fine, and the wind favourable. The waters are much calmer here than in the Atlantic, or Indian Ocean. We have now a ten know breeze, and the sea is almost quiet, but when we had a ten know breeze in the Indian Ocean, the waves were very high, and the wind continued that way for 2 or 3 days, they were a tremendous height.
The vessel runs so steadily here, that we can walk around with ease, and almost forget that we are not in a house. The children take advantage of the change, and to-day they are unusually active and noisy. They take a good share of exercise, even when we can hardly get about. No doubt this is the principle reason that they have so much less sickness than older ones. They are all fat and hearty. Willies face is nearly as broad as it is long, and he enjoys a powerful appertite. Fred is not far behind him in this respect though he does not seem quite so well at all times. I cannot say so much in regard to their mental and moral improvement. A ship is a poor school for training young children. With larger ones, such as Milton, it does not make so much difference. He is always kind and attentive to ally my wants, and is never so happy as when he can in any was administer to our comfort. Albert often says he does not know how we should get along without Milton. He is indeed a great comfort.
Tuesday Morning Nov 24th. The wind which has been favourable so long, has changed at last and is now dead ahead. This morning the rising sun bespoke foul weather. The sky still looks stormy and they say we are going to have a gale. If the wind were fair we should hope to outside the gale, and keep safely on our way, but such is not the case, and should a great storm arise, we will most likely be driven far out of our course, which would not be very pleasant to us, as it would of course obstruct our voyage, which seems now to be nearly long enough, but we still look for safety to Him who rules the winds and waves. It is a great comfort to know that we have an Almighty Friend and Father at the helm of affairs, and should He not choose to save us, it is because he has resigned some better thing for us.
Wednesday Evening Nov 25th. We had a gale all day yesterday from the North East. After dark it increased considerably, so we had to run as close as possible to the wind, which made it very rough. It kept on increasing until Midnight, when it was so strong we were forced to change our course, and run before it off our course somewhat though not so much as was at first feared. By daybreak it was again fair, but has been so squally all day that we could not carry much sail, so have made comparatively, but slow progress. We are 500 miles south west of Van Diemens Land. This is a great place for gales. They all say we had a very bad night, but the gale seemed to me much lighter than many we have experienced on this passage, because the sea is so much smoother. In the Indian Ocean, the waves always seem mad, and wrathful, but here they are very different. They seem to dance and laugh and play and sport. They look very beautiful, and I like to watch the harmless foam-crested waves sparkling in the bright sunbeams. As I had a bad head-ache, and Albert was suffering from cold and sore throat, we kept to our room all the storm, not even going below once, but I learned to-day that the wind was so high that several could not rest till morning. We feel that our hearts should glow with gratitude to Him who plants His footsteps in the sea, and rides upon the storm. We are now out to sea, 14 weeks, and our friends are now our Antipodes, so we are as far from them as it is possible to be in this great world. We have yet 1700 miles more to reach New Zealand, and then we will be that much nearer to them again. Though so far away, we do not forget them, nor the dear people of God, with whom we took sweet council, though sundered far, by faith they meet around one common mercy seat.
Monday Eve Nov 30th. Since writing last, we have had several squalls, but now the wind is fair and we are making good head-way. Well the thousands are conquered at last. We have only 900 miles more to go. So we feel as though we are most there. Oh! what a time there will e some fine morning before long, when we hear one of the sailors shouting from the Mast-head. Land ho! New Zealand ohoy. All are now at the height of expectation, and anticipation. Wonder what kind of a country it is. How will it first appear? What is Wellington like? How long shall we be there, etc etc.
Wednesday Dec 2nd Tis said by someone (I have forgotten his name) that there are no incidents at sea, save accidents. Although this may not be literally true in regard to us, yet we do have our share of accidents. Yesterday afternoon ,when I was reading quietly alone in my room, I heard a terrific scream on deck. As it was quite rough and the ship was rolling considerably, my first fears were that someone had fallen overboard. but before I had time to find out the cause my own little Freddie was brought into my room weak and fainting, to much hurt even to cry. He had fallen from the top of the Galley a distance of 10 feet and had he fallen a minute sooner, when the vessel listed on the opposite side, he must have gone clean over into the sea, where there would not have been the least chance of saving of him. It was a very narrow escape he fell within a foot of the rail and struck his head against the end of a spare spar, which was lashed on deck. We laid him on the bed and called in the Doctor, who after carefully examining him and finding neither wound nor bruise, pronounced him not very seriously injured. He was however hurt internally. He seemed all through the night in much distress, complained of pain in his head. This afternoon he got up and played a little with the boys, but being weak and unsteady in his head, he became dizzy, and fell headlong to the bottom of the stairs. He stuck the lower step on his side, and now he suffers a good deal. We hope it will not prove very serious. We are thankful it is no worse. The wind is fair and we hope to see land on Friday. We have been out of sight of land 15 weeks today. The Sailors are very busy tarring the standing ropes, and rigging, to make the vessel look smart to enter port. The chains and anchors are all brought forward to her boughs, to be ready to cast at moments notice. The sick ones took good care to get well and seem alright now that we are so near the end of our voyage. I suppose the smell of land has cured them. The Doctor has given general satisfaction, and has become quite a favourite on board. They have drawn up a farewell address, to be presented to him on our arrival in Port, expressing our love esteem for him, and our appreciation of his valuable services. I finished my cushion, and it looks very nice. Nearly all the ladies have learnt the pattern.
Friday Dec 4th. The first appearance of land was seen to-day from the mast head at 12 oclock. In about a hours time it loomed up so, that we could all see it distinctly from the deck. And truly, after seeing nothing but sky and water, for 107 days, we are much interested in the first view of N.Z. especially as the first land we sighted, was Cape Farewells the last point of this country that its illustrious discoverer Captain Cook ever beheld. Our passage has been rough and smooth, wet and dry, fair and foul, hot, cold, and temperate, but on the whole favorable. We have seen the ocean and all its varying moods and colors. We have seen its waters at times intensely blue, and again dark and cold looking. And again of a greenish cast. We have been a good deal interested in watching the playful movemints, of the numerous Seabirds of various kinds. The beautiful Albatross with its long graceful wings and snow white breast, was soaring aloft and again sailing with perfect ease so low, as to meet the top if the waves, as its skims along from sea to sea. Then lighting on the rolling billow and resting there as securely, as a child upon its downy bed. Three of these pleasant companions have scarcely been out of sight, for over 300 miles. They come close at meal times, and gladly pick up the crumps which the cooks throw over. The Cape Pigeons have left us 2 weeks ago, but the Albatross, and whale birds seemed to be determined to be our convoys to the end. Mother Careys Chickens we have seen in all latitudes. They, like most other sea fowl appear in grater number in stormy weather.
Saturday Eve Dec 5th. Saw two vessels this evening and 5 this morning. Wind dead ahead last night, nearly a perfect calm morning, but blows strong now. The weather has been very foggy all day. We are probably not more than 10 Miles from shore, we are in Cooks Straits. Just before dark, we saw the welcome light, from the lighthouse on Mana Island, which revived our spirits not a little. This light is only 18 Miles from the one at Wellington Heads.
11 oclock P.M. The night is terribly dark and stormy; they have been obliged to lay the vessel too, as the is no room to run, and none of us are acquainted with this bold, rugged rock bound coast. May God protect us. In all our former gales, we have plenty of sea room and were not afraid of running onto rocks.
Sunday Morning 6 oclock Dec 6th Laid to, till midnight, when the sky became clear, the moon and stars shone out, and it was quite light, though still very wild and rough. Then they tacked ship and ran towards Wellington Heads, under double reefs, the wind blowing all the time what the captain called, A Regular Screecher. I arose at 3 oclock, just as day was dawning, we were in fair in fair view of the Anchorage off the Heads, but whether we should reach it in safety, of be driven onto the rugged rocks, that appeared out of the foaming billows in almost every direction seemed very doubtful. Every man was on deck, and nearly every woman too anxiously watching, every moment ready to jump or ready to render assistance when needed. As we swiftly and gallantly drew the light they cast the line, and sounded again and again. Many many times was this process repeated, for 15 minutes all was breathless anxiety, an expectation when at length to our great joy Bill threw the line again, an cried out 15 Fathoms. Then they cast the anchor, and we were still for the first time for 109 days. O how good it seemed to be quiet once more, and how our hearts rose in gratitude to our Great Protector and Deliverer. We are very near the lighthouse, our flag is hoisted, and we are anxiously waiting for a Pilot to come an guide us up to the City, which is about 10 miles from here, up a narrow difficult channel.
Monday Evening Dec 7th. The Pilot with three helpers came to us yesterday noon. There is a noble looking man , formerly from New Brunswick named Anderson. The others are not Maories, as we supposed, when the boat first appeared. One was a great burly Scotch Highlander. One a big New Jersey man. and the other a German. They all seem to be clever, good natured, intelligent men, It is doubtful if we were ever more pleased to see company. In a short time each one of them were surrounded by an attentive audience, each ready to put a score of difficult questions. They inform us that the Maories are again at war against the white men of Wellington Province. The war commenced about 2 months ago. The Government has offered 1000 Pounds for the head of the Chief of the Warring tribe, and 5 Pounds for every man among them, brought to the City alive. The news of this war has cast a gloom over all on board. The wind increased to a gale, so that we could neither get into the Harbor, nor could the Pilots leave us in their boats. The pilot seldom leaves the deck. he appears to be exceedingly anxious for the safety of the ship. This morning she dragged two heavy anchors, about 2 miles, and danger threatens all around. He greatly blames the light house keeper, for not giving our signal early, so that he could have been here in time to take the vessel inside before the gale got so high declares he will report him, and have him dismissed for thus endangering the lives and property of so many souls. This afternoon we saw the Panama Steamer go up the Harbor steadily, but slowly, against wind and tide. She is to leave to-morrow, and we very much fear that we shall not be in, in time to Mail the letters we have prepared to send home. The pilots have just enlightened us further, concerning the war. About 2 months ago a number of rebel Maories who were banished during the last Maorie War, to the Chatham Islands, seized a small trading vessel, and about 200 of them came in her to Poverty Bay, on the East coast of New Zealand, about 100 miles from Wellington. They in cold blood slaughted all the inhabitants of Poverty Bay, consisting of about 30 men, women and children cut and mangled their bodies in a most barbarous manner, and then threw them to the hogs. It is also stated that they actually ate some of the fairest and fattest among them.
Tuesday P.M. Dec 8th. This is the third day we have been anchored here and there is no sign of a lull. We had hoped to be in before this but we are still, several Steamers have gone in and out, passing only about 3 miles from us.
The Panama Steamer left today without our letters, so our friends will not hear from us for a month longer at least. To be here rolling about, with the wind blowing out of the Harbor As if Eoeluss had let all his furies loose upon us, and only 10 miles from the City we so much long to see, is rather trying to the patience but what be cured must be endured. I was quite amused this morning by hearing one of the men trying to console his wife in this manner. He said to her, Oh! aint you comfortable enough here with good servants to wait on you. Why are you not just as well off as you would be at the hotel ? But poor thing, she could not see it in that light. The Captain, as well as all on board, is getting tired of this, and now he seems to be very anxious to run to Dunedin, and the wind is favourable to go there if we could but weigh anchors, and get rid of the Pilots, but this is impossible until the wind slack a little. We are so near the shore that before we could get in 90 fathoms of chains, now out the vessel would be upon the rocks.
A little later. There has just been a meeting of the company, to consider what is the best to do. Two thirds of them voted to go to Dunedin and this of course decides the matter, but the minority, as well as the Passengers strongly object. They have had enough of the Sea, and would give anything to get foot on shore. Oh dear, what a time. The Pilot strongly advocate our going to Dunedin; As the South Island is peaceable and much more prosperous, and he thinks we would stand a much better chance of selling the vessel in Dunedin than in Wellington, in fact, he gives us no encouragement, that we could now realize cash in Wellington.
Wednesday Eve Dec 9th. Last evening about sunset the wind lulled, so that we were able to weigh anchors, and the Pilots left us. It was rather a sad time to many of us. We are now out to Sea again. We hope it will all turn out for the best, but it is very hard to bear, especially as the best of our provisions are eaten up, and the water is again bad and we are pretty well worn down and weakened by so a long voyage. Should our passage to Dunedin be prolonged for many days, we must suffer a great deal, and live on very hard for us. The Sailors are much annoyed, Two of them refused to work. The Captain threatened to put them in irons, which brought them to terms.
The passengers, before we got in the anchors, sent in a petition to the Captain praying him to put them on shore, or not go to Sea again without procuring some fresh provisions, but he did not even deign a reply. They now say, that if he will put them into Port Lyttleton, which is just half way to Dunedin they will say no more about it: but if not , they will seek satisfaction at the hands of the Law, when they arrive at Port, though it should cost them all they possess. We are now quite near the above Port, with a fair wind to put us in. Most all on board are anxious to go in, even all those who voted for going to Dunedin, except the Captain and one man, would willingly and gladly go into the Port Lyttleton. Three of the owners waited upon the Captain to-day and requested him, on behalf of all on board to steer for Port Lyttleton, particularly as the passengers are so desirous of getting on shore, and will by this means be fully appeased. He said he did not care, that he left the strait for Dunedin, and to Dunedin he would go. In vain they reasoned with him, He listened a while, and then turning away in anger, you talk like fools, I will go to Dunedin. He had promised before leaving the Straits that he would call at Port Lyttleton, if it were necessary. We fear that he will be made to suffer for this wilfulness when he gets a shore, for the Passengers are very much enraged at his way of treating them.
Thursday Morning Dec 10. Last evening the wind came ahead, and we are now no nearer Dunedin, than we were yesterday morning. We are only about 16 miles from Port Lyttleton, which is the Port of Christchuch the Capital of the province of Canterbury, and the wind is all that can be desired for going strait on, but the Captain is still determined to go to Dunedin. An air of sadness reigns to-day. They all say he might easily land them at this port, and then take the vessel to Dunedin if he wished, and so we think, but we cannot rule. The sun shines brightly, the air is soft and balmy, the Sea-birds are gay as ever, but we are sad indeed. If we felt we were treated with due consideration we could even here rejoice to breathe the pure air, and gaze upon the long line of snow capped mountains, stretching along the interior of N.Z. far in the distance. The view of them is indeed lofty and majestic, as their Hoary heads tower high into the clouds. If things were only a little more agreeable we might sing as gayly as ever, but as it is our voices are silent, our musical instruments are dumb. The usually cheerful faces now wear on air of sadness and disappointment. As it is, the time passes heavily and drearily.
Thursday Evening Dec 10th. Enlightened Mortals are very aspiring their thoughts and desires tend onwards and upwards, and they cannot patiently be inactive. What wonder then that their are impatient spirits, in our little brig, under our most trying circumstances, as we are but a few miles removed from where we were 2 days ago. When out of sight of land we bore our trials patiently, and lived in hopes, but now having as we think more than completed a long voyage, we do not find it so easy to exercise the grace of patience; in fact, some of the most patient among us really think that they have attained to that point, beyond which patience ceases to be a virtue. All through the day, little groups of passengers, subdued, sad, and disappointed looking, might be seen conversing together, almost in a whisper. I feel sorry for them, but i do not care so much for myself. I am not very anxious about the matter. We have been near the shore all day, sometimes not more than 4 or 5 miles from it, which appears very plainly to the naked eye, but many use Spy-glasses. The whole range of coast that we have seen is hilly. Some of them densely wooded, others entirely bare, and afford pasturage for thousands of sheep and cattle. At the foot of one these hills at the shore quite near us, we see a large Cave. We do not see any settlements on the coast The open lands are used for grazing, and we see only the fires of the Shepherds, with the smoke curling here and there from the deep ravines in the great ranges.
Steamers are constantly running past us, in the distance, going in and out of Port Lyttleton. One ran now quite near us, bound South, She was three masted, and went very fast, leaving us behind.
Evening. There is scarcely a breath of wind, and the vessel is slowly drifting on towards the shore which is a rocky point of Grants Peninsula. We like the look of the land on this coast, Much better than that we saw from Cooks Straits, but we are not so sanguine in its admiration. We do not raise any castles of expectations now as we did there. We have been so thoroughly disappointed that we hardly dare to hope that we shall ever set foot on the soil of NZ. We know, however that while haughty self-willed Man disappoint us, God rules, and our times are in his hands, and he can easily make all those trying events to work for our good, and we will still trust him, Yea in the shadow of his wings, will we find refuge until these trials be past.
Saturday Morning Dec. 12th. Change is indelibly stamped upon all earthly things. We see it in each flower, that opens its petals to the sunlight, in the ripening grain and the towering tree, in the rippling stream and the roaring cataract, the beautiful lake, and the flowing river, the wind and the rain, the ocean and the sky: but perhaps there is nothing more subject to change than the human Countenance, and never have we seen a more sudden change in the visage of man, than that which took place place yesterday afternoon. The wind which had so long been ahead, came round at mid-day and it was at length favourable for going to Dunedin. We were slowly moving along, until about 5 P.M. when suddenly there appeared towards the setting sun, a huge black cloud, which unrolled like great fleece, and suddenly spread itself over the whole sky, and was as angry looking as anything I aver saw in the world. The wind turned fair about in the twinkling of an eye, and a tremendous squall struck us right in the teeth, compares to which, those we had formerly experienced were but Pigmies. I have often during this voyage seen anxiety depicted in the countenances of the Men, but never did I behold fear and terror so fully portrayed. Youth and strong men quaked and shook with fear. The sailors were at their tea, and it was the Mates watch below. The Captain, though he had been on deck for sometime, had not anticipated this.
He had just had the main sail put up and stood looking at the cloud doubtfully, as if he had no correct idea of a N.Z. white squall. In a moment he turned deadly pale, one of the hands, who had more presence of mind, without any orders let go the mainsail, one of the passengers loosed other sails, and the Captain seemed spell bound, and gave no orders, Dick who was at the wheel, immediately brought the ship around, and this no doubt saved our lives. The mate feeling the peculiar motion of the vessel, left his watch below, and just at the critical moment came on deck. Up to this time the Captain had not uttered a word. Then he began to give orders. All hands, with the Second mate, were sent aloft to reef sail. The squall increased. There was hurrying to and fro. The Mates loud voice of command was often heard above the loud roarings of the storm. The men passengers, and all stood ready to give a helping hand. I stood at my window to view the raging of the tempest, and the words of the Psalmist, about Mariners, came forcibly to my mind.
They reel to and fro and stagger like a drunken man, and are at their wits ends. All appeared to be at their wits ends now. None but God can save them from the doom that threatens. Unless the Lord save us, we perish even wicked man, and those who sometimes dare take Gods name in vain. Say, unless a kind Providence save, we must sink. Two anxious hours, passed. Then they let her drive before the blast, for several hours, when the night setting in dark and dreary beyond all power of language to describe they hove her to lashed the wheel and let her go until daybreak. since that time we have made but little head way, for the wind is still contrary and the seas run very high. We lost last night all that has been gained for 48 hours. We have seen the land for a whole week, but have not been permitted to set foot thereon. Is it decreed that we shall never enter any Port of N.Z.? The Lord give us patience, and we will not cease to pray for good winds, to bring us safely to Land, for we are worn and weary of thus watching and waiting.
Monday Morning 9 A.M. Dec 14th. He who hearth prayer, has at length sent the favoring breeze, for the last 96 hours we have been sweetly, but slowly borne along before it, and now the distance is nearly gained. This morning we neared Port Chalmers light house at day-break. This is at the entrance of the Harbor leading into Dunedin. We did not need to cast anchor here, for we were met by the Pilot, who conducted us up to Port Chalmers , where we are now safely anchored, waiting for the turn of the tide to go up to Dunedin a distance of 9 miles. At the flood tide another Pilot will come out and conduct us thither. As soon as we cast anchor we were boarded by a health officer, who found a clear bill of health, so we are not compelled to ride Quarantine, though some of us do indeed look the worse, of the long voyage. The officer pointed to the green fields, and smiling pleasantly, said a run there would do us all good. We are going to enjoy a treat of a dinner of fresh meat, and onions, and new potatoes, fresh bakers bread, fresh water, the like of which we have not had for nearly 4 months. We have been on deck, since early morning, feasting our eyes on the lovely green fields. The Harbor is very narrow and difficult of access, on account of a land lear at its mouth.
Monday Evening Dec 14. By the blessing of God we entered the Harbor of Dunedin at 4 oclock P.M. Our sail up the Harbor was truly delightful It is a very narrow passage, though a beautiful sheet of water. It is thickly settled on each side, The houses are small, but remarkably neat. We have a fine view of the city of Dunedin, long before we reach the place of landing. When we got into the Pier, we found it thronged with people who had come down to see the adventurous Little brig from America, which had been reported by telegraph from Wellington. A number came on board, among whom were several from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and many questions were soon exchanged. Some of our men have been on Shore, and brought us newspapers, Ripe Strawberries Apples, Oranges, etc, which we eagerly devour. Most of us expect to leave the Ship tomorrow. We have abundant cause for thankfulness to our heavenly Father in thus delivering us from the dangers of the deep and our hearts should ever glow with gratitude to Him who holds the winds, and the waves in his fits. And now our little company are about to separate.
We hope all may find happiness and prosperity in this new country, and having crossed the Sea of life, at last meet above, where parting shall not be Known.
Part Second
Monday 21st. I thought I would not write anymore in my journal, when I got to land: but I believe writing has become a fixed habit, and so I continue, it is just one week since we arrived in Port. We have had some fine walks about the town.
Dunedin is prettily situated on the upper Harbor Standing on a narrow belt of flat land, backed by hills, rising to an alleviation of 600 feet. Viewed from the Harbor it presents the appearance of an Amphitheatre, with the houses rising tier above tier to the very summit. The shops on the principal Business streets are built of brick and stone. The dwellings and houses are for the most part built of wood. Many of them are only one storied villa residences, but they are very neat and pretty. They most all have verandahs. In the suburbs, however there are some very fine two storied residences. The town presents a remarkably clean and neat appearance. The Scenery outside the Town is wild and romantic enough. It is the most hilly place I ever saw; hills and mountains meet the eye in almost every direction. At the Northern boundary of the Town, is the botanical gardens, open for the public close to which runs the small river of Leith, or as it is more commonly called, The Water of Leith. The scenery at this spot is well worth the careful attention of the Artist. We went to the Baptist Church to a meeting yesterday. It is a pretty stone building with windows of stained glass. Mr Williams the present pastor, has been with them about nine months. The Baptist Church here is large, Albert took the children to Sunday School in the afternoon, and addressed the Sabbath School; when he came home, a lady and a gentleman, Mr and Mrs Morse, came with him and called to see me. They appear to be fine Christian people. This morning, another lady, Mrs Aitkin, called and invited me to come and see her tomorrow, and anytime when I could. Several others called this afternoon. All seemed kind and sympathising, as they all have known what it is to be strangers in a strange land.
1869 January 2nd. Spent Christmas day at the Rev. Mr Williams. it did not seem much like Christmas, for instead of ground frozen or white with snow, and trees glistening with Icecicles, the flowers are blooming in the gardens, and the fields and trees are green. Yesterday was a great day with the Sabbath Schools. We spent the day at one of their picnics, or as they call them treats. This treat was kept in the grounds of a Gentleman, a little out of Town.
Jan 11th. Several of our company are desirous of taking up newland, and forming a colony. Of course they will want a Minister to go with them, and they wish us to join them. The place where they talk of going is Martins Bay, on the west coast of this, Otago province. It is about 200 miles from here, and 60 miles from any settlement. They have consulted the Governor of Otago Province he has granted 100 acres of land to each person going, also to send them round in a Steamer free of charge.
Jan 15th. A law suite, between one of the passengers and the Captain has just come off. Passenger sued for 24 pounds damage for having to eat the bad flour and also for the way in which he was treated while passenger in the Emulus. This disgraceful affair occupied the court nearly 3 days payment was given for the Plaintiff, damages recovered to. The other passengers put in their plea for the same. This will be a small loss to the NZ Company but the Captain will be the greatest loser as he is the largest owner.
They all say that had the Captain treated them as he should that they would have made the best of things, but they cannot forgive his uncortious, ungentlemanly way which he treated them.
January 17th. The scheme of going to Martins Bay is about falling through. One who was most anxious to go has just been talking to a Sea Captain who was wrecked there and he gives a sad account of the harbor. Says it is almost inaccessible on account of the rocks at its mouth and this would be a great drawback, as everthing necessary for Colonization must be taken there by water, until roads are opened out to the settlement, in fact the leader of the scheme is discouraged so I suppose there is an end of the matter. I can hardly say whether I am glad or sorry that it has turned out so, but 500 acers of land for our family is quite a consideration no doubt but someone will go there and do well before many years, and no doubt but the leader of the scheme will be sorry sometime, for being so easily discouraged, by an unfortunate Mariner.
Feb 8th. Well the vessel has been sold, and all the business settled, and so every one is at liberty to go where he pleases. When we came here we expected to go to Wanganui, but we have received so many letters from there which are discouraging, that we do not feel much like going at present while the War lasts. Albert has preached several times to the Baptists here, and some of them seem very desirous for him to remain and labor in connection with Mr Williams, as there is plenty of work for both, but he does care to do this, but prefers a pastorate. Albert has been away for 2 weeks. He is about ?? miles up the Country. I have received several letters from him. He is travelling and preaching in destitute places where the Gospel is seldom heard.
Feb. 18th. Albert has just returned from his tour up the Country. He preached a number of times in the Mount Ider Gold fields district. They wished him to remain and labor among them, and a good support would be guaranteed, but he thinks the severity of the climate there is a sufficient reason for not going. Their winters in that place are nearly as severe as in Nova Scotia, indeed it is quite remarkable the variety of Climate, that NZ passes, but this may be easily accounted for when we consider the peculiar formation of these Islands, with their lofty mountians and sheltered valleys. During Alberts absence letters came for him from Dr Hobbs in Australia, and Mr Levi Eaton of Auckland, both showing the necessity of ministerial labor in their localities.
Mr Eaton urges him to come to Auckland. We would like to go there, but for the Maori War which is agitating the North Island. Though the Maories have never troubled Auckland, yet they have threatened to do so, and we think it prudent to give them a wide berth, at least for a time, Till the Maories are subdued. So we have made up our minds to go to Australia; not however, without an idea of returning to the North Island of New Zealand, when peace is fully restored, but for the present we think this is the best couse to take.
Feb. 22nd. We expect to leave tomorrow. I have just been bidding Mrs Aitkins goobye. I have formed a good many acquaintances here: but Mrs A is my most intimate friend. I can not soon forget her for the ring which she placed upon my finger, her parting gift, will be a constant reminder.
Voyage from Dunedin to Melbourne.
Saturday February 27th. Left Dunedin at 2 P.M. Tuesday Feb 23rd. was conveyed to Port Chalmers, a distance of 10 miles, in a small Steamer Golden Cage. Here we changed steamers, and took passage on board of the Tarranua, A Steamer of some 850 tons, fitted up for the passengers. Left Port Chalmers at 6 P.M. with strong head wind. Husband and children and myself all very sea-sick, except Milton, who was not sick a minute. There are a good many passengers on board and they were most sea-sick too. At 3 P.M. on Wednesday we reached Port Lyttleton, a small sea port town, backed by hills it is the port to the City of Christchurch. Here we had to unload freight, to take in passengers , etc. Most of our passengers went ashore, but we were too much indisposed from sea sickness to make much exertion but the following morning being very fine Albert went ashore with a number of gentlemen. About 7 miles from the port, back of the hills, or mountains, is the City of Christchurch on a level plain some 30 or 40 miles in extent; while beyond towers in Majesty lofty mountain ranges. This city is beautifully ornamented with trees and hedges, and judging from all accounts, must be a pretty Town. A river makes in which is navigable only by small vessels. In order to reach the city they took the Cars from the Port, the railway tunnel extends right through the hills.They were 5 minutes in the tunnel in darkness, them emerging from this darkness, they passed though beautiful cultivated lands, where the reapers were cutting down the golden grain. On arriving in the City though they had but a few hours to remain. Albert fell in with Baptist friends, who immediately acquainted him with the religious interest of the place. They are without a Minister, though he was an entire stranger they immediately beset him to remain especially as they are now anxious, as there are a number who wish to be baptised. One lady was so much interested, that she said she must see his wife and she came down to the Steamer to see me. The Steamer was getting away and A and this lady hurriedly told what I have just written. She very much regretted that our passege was paid to Melbourne, for they wanted a minister, but she hoped our going to Melbourne would only be a cruise and bade one good bye saying that she hoped it might be my lot to return to Christchurch and find a home amongst them. I think Albert felt loath to leave a place where there was an opening for so much usefulness, but we had not time to make up our minds or to get our luggage out of the Steamer.
Left the Port about 2 P.M. had a fine pleasant run to Wellington, got requainted with serveral of the Passengers, among whom were 3 Methodist Ministers, returning from the Conference, held at Sydney Australia. There some travelling for pleasure, some visiting friends, others on business. We reached Wellington at 8 oclock in the morning. Went ashore and walked about the Town, visited the Museum and was much pleased with it. Wellington is at present the Seat of Government. Left at 3 oclock P.M. weather very fine. Stayed on deck till dark. Had a delightful passage down the coast, through Cooks Straits, which they say is quite an unusual occurrence for here the wind draws through the Strait, usually blows a gale. We passed Queen Charlottes Sound and kept quite near the Shore all the day. Arrived at Nelson this morning at 8 oclock. The incessant rain since early morn prevents our going ashore.
Monday Feb 29th. The time has swiftly passed since I laid down my pencil on Saturday. Albert thought he would go on shore and so after dinner he sailed out. He had scarcely got clear of the jetty (N.Z. name for wharf) when he met a man, one Dodson, formerly of N.Z. who had come to hunt him up. They had not met before, but Dodson had heard that there was a Nova Scotian on board, and that was enough, people are very clannish when they are a long way from home. Mr. Dodson showed him around the little town, which has a population of some 4000, then he took him to his own house a fine residence in a lovely spot, treated him to peaches and grapes from his garden. He also introduced him to the Baptist Minister of the place, Mr. Davis. about 6 oclock the rain slacked a little and Albert came down to the Steamer accompanied by Mr. Davis, to get me up to see the Town. The Town is about 2 miles from the jetty, we were to late for the horse cars, so we took a cab up.
Then we walked about the Town Mr. Davis showed us through the principal streets. Then we ascended a flight of some 50 or 60 steps and found ourselves upon a hill, where is situated the English Church, a fine Edifice; from this hill we have a fine view of the Town below. There is a Catholic Chapel, a Presbyterian Church, a Wesleyan Chapel, a Baptist Meeting house and a Church where the Plymouth Brethren worship. The dwelling houses of Nelson are neat, substantial and comfortable looking; Mostly two stored buildings.
The whole place has a settled look, as if the people intended to remain there. Quite the reverse of this is the case in many places; in some parts of Dunedin and many of the mining districts there are lots of people who are striving to amass a fortune, with the intention of going home to enjoy it. Of course in these cases their houses are quite temporary looking, and lack that home like appearance which charaterizes the little town of Nelson. This Town is well ornamented with trees of various kinds. A quantity of fruit is in Nelson Province, Apple peaches, pears, and grapes, are in season now. After we had quite wearied ourselves with walking about, Mr Davis took us to his house. Here we were very cordially received by Mrs Davis and family, and spent the remainder of the evening very pleasantly. Mr Davis was formerly a Missionary in Ceylon, but was obliged to leave there on account of ill health. Has been in Nelson some 6 years, has not had a visit from a brother minister for 4 years. Seemed to be delighted to meet with Albert, and was anxious that he should remain and preach to his people on the Sabbath. But the Steamer was advertised to leave early on Sunday morning, and so we were obliged to bid these good people good bye glad to have enjoyed their society even for so short a time. We came down to the Steamer in the horse cars, this horse railway extends some 30 or 40 miles up the Country. I was sorry that the day had not ben fine, so that I could have seen more of this pretty little town but though seen at a great disadvantage on account of the rain, I received a very pleasant impression of the place.
Indeed I think it the loveliest spot I have yet seen in N.Z. I admire its situation too. About 2/3 of it is bounding by the neighbouring Mountains, while the remainder is open to the Sea. Left Nelson at 9 oclock Sunday morning, day was very fine. We are sorry to go to the Sea on the Lords day, but we cannot control the movements of the Ship. Leaving Nelson, we pass along down the Coast, not more than 2 or 3 miles from the shore for a few miles down, we have a fine view of the beautiful green fields and neat cottages which skirt the shore. Then we are past the Abodes of Man, for the land further down is unsettled. Towering Mountains, and rugged rocks meet the eye, and as we gaze upon the sublimity and grandeur of the scene, our minds are instinctively led from Nature up to Natures God, and we are led to exclaim with the sweet Singer of Israel, All thy works praise thee. As we pass Cape Farewell, we are much interested in the peculiar formation of the immense rocks jutting out into the Sea, with caves and arches, so curiously formed. Here they stand securely, though the waves are constantly dashing against them, and so does the soul that trusts in Jesus, find safety, and security, amid the tempest strife and turmoil of life. As there are still two ministers on board, the others left at Wellington it was arranged that two services should be held. Mr Shaw a Wellington minister, preached at 1 oclock from the words, Thou art weighed in the balance and found wanting. This service was only just ended when the sea, which had been so calm and pleasant all the morning got rough, by the rising wind, and most of all the passengers were sea sick again: and the ship rolled and tossed about so, that the other service which was to have been at 4 oclock, was obliged to be omitted. Albert and the children were quite Sea Sick again. I was in the stateroom with them, when all once I felt the ship stop. I soon found out the cause of this. A small coasting vessel had hoisted a signal of distress. They and begged a bucket of water and food: and our Captain gave them to them, and they seemed very thankful. Poor fellows. We have often read of such cases of distress, but this is the first one we have seen. This Morning, about 7 oclock, we found ourselves quite near to Greymouth, but we cannot go in on the account of a large Sand bar at the mouth of the harbor, which prevents any thing but very small steamers and vessels from entering. A small Steamer came out to meet us, which conveyed the freight, mails, passengers etc. into Greymouth. Greymouth is a small town of 3 years growth, with a population of something over 2000. It seems strange at first sight, that the town should be built where there is a bad harbor, but the gold being found here in large quantities, is the only explanation necessary. Like other new places the price of food is almost fabulous. Milk 2 shillings per quart, bread one shilling and six pence per 4 lb loaf. eggs 5 shillings per dozen. Butter 5 shillings per pound. Fruit and vegetables difficult to obtain at any price. among the passengers that left us here, was a young lawyer, who has just come over from the City of Melbourne to try his fortune in this rising town. Having transhipped passengers, freight, Mails etc. we again pursue our passage down the coast, and in a few hours come in sight of Hokitiki, a town of 6000 inhabitants on a level plain close to the Sea Shore. The Harbor is difficult of entrance. The water is very shallow in many places, and large sand bar is also a great obstacle. a small steamer came out to us, and conveyed the freight passengers etc. to the Town. Hokitiki is principally kept up by gold mining. The country around is densely bushed and less hilly than any of the coast that we seen before, and will in no time be a fine farming country, as the land is very good here, but the present difficulty is getting it cleared, which is very expensive, as labor is so high. The weather is very fine today. They that they do not often get such a favourable time here. Sometime the wind blows at such a tremendous rate. As to detain them 4 or 5 days before they can tranship passengers, and take in freight. Many vessels have been wrecked in trying to get into this harbor, but still a good many small ones get in safely and there is considerable shipping. When we left Dunedin, we were full of passengers but we have left most of them at different Ports .And now I am the only female except the stewardess on board.
Tuesday Feb. 20th. yesterday was so fine and calm that we hoped to get off to Sea, without having witnessed a fair specimen of Hokitiki weather, but by some mismanagement of the Hokitiki agent, the Steamer conveying the freight for Melbourne, came out to the Tarrarua last evening, without the passengers, so we had to wait till this afternoon tide; before the Steamer conveying the passengers made her appearance and by the time she came near us, the sea which was so calm yesterday got so very rough as to render the transhipment of the passengers, a very difficult as well as dangerous operation. It would be very difficult for any one who has not witnessed a similar scene to form any correct idea of it. Here we were with the great seas dashing so high about us, that it was quite impossible for the small Steamer Persevere to come near enough to unload her live freight. So a rope was thrown to her then a boat with a rope lowered and attached was sent to her. Every wave threatened destruction, but at length after much difficulty they brought her alongside the Persevere, and one after another watched their chance to step down into the boat, Between seas, until she was full. Then they came to us and all succeeded in getting on board, again the boat is sent to the Persevere, but the waves run so high, it is almost impossible to come near.. What will become of the Ladies, who are there waiting to be transhipped, was the involuntary exclamation of us all. They seemed to hesitate. At length one came bravely forward. We trembled for her safety but she was handed down into the boat all right. Then came another and another, and so on until the little boat was again filled and after much tossing and rolling upon the heaving billows they reached us safely: but other are waiting to go through this fearful ordeal, and again the little boat is sent on the errand. This time a number of Ladies and children are dexterously handed down. Some of the Ladies seem very brave, but one we observe almost fainting with fear. She has in arms a little babe, while she leans for support and courage upon the arms of her husband.
Just after they leave the Persevere a heavy sea dashes into the little boat. she is almost lost from our view but again she rises and comes safely alongside. This time the little boat, is half full of water and ladies and gentlemen and babies are pretty thoroughly wetted, the little boat is again sent and this time brings the remainder of the passengers. We utter a sigh of relief, thank God the remainder are safe on board, but there is the luggage to be brought. So the lives of the Sailors must be endangered, and they go after the luggage. Trunks, boxes, bags, among which was a bag of Hokitiki gold: with a buoy attached to it are rudely thrown into the boat. She rides the waves, and safely comes alongside and a rope with a hook attached is thrown down, by which means the luggage is brought. Bags and small parcels are thoroughly wet for the boat is half full of water, but the work is accomplished and we are glad to hear the cry of all on board and to see the Persevere move off. Just as we are leaving we witness quite an affecting sight. A young Lady, upon our deck waving a sad good bye to a friend on board the Persevere Ah! me! this world is full of sad partings. We go below and find most of the new passengers sea sick: had just got started for a comfortable spell of reading, when we feel the ship stop, and hear the Steward say that the Persevere had hoisted a signal of distress. She had tried to get over the bar, that it is to late in the tide, so she will have to wait out all night, and water - but we are off to Sea clear of Hokitiki at last.
The whole of the N.Z. coast is subject to high winds, but the west Coast is more especially so. five years ago, where Hokitiki now is there was only a dense forest, with no settlers, but some diggers on a tramp discovered gold here, they tried to keep the matter quiet and keep themselves to the shining dust. They were suspected and watched and so the secret got out.
Then there came a rush and mushroom like grew the town of Hokitiki and now though it does not present a very inviting picture, as we see it from the sea, yet those who have ben there say it is a very nice little town, has got houses, shops, Churches, Schools etc etc.
March 8th. Monday afternoon. We have had constant head winds since left Hohitiki. Sighted land early this morning, and expect to arrive in Melbourne this evening. Our passage after the first four days of Sea sickness , has been on the whole a pleasant one. The Captain, is one of those genial pleasant looking persons like what we have read about who seem to spread sunshine and cheerfulness all around. He is a real gentleman and a captain who is not above his work, but out well for the safety of the ship and the interests of all on board. I have been on deck nearly all day viewing the Australian coast. We are just now entering the heads. It is 40 miles from them to Melbourne.
Tuesday Morning. We arrived at Melbourne last evening, about 10 oclock. When we where within 20 miles of Melbourne we met the Steamship Galatea, which has on board His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, so we are too late to see him. He is going to visit N.Z. About 18 miles from Melbourne is Sandridge , a seaport town of considerable size and importance. A few miles further on is Williamstown, another fine Sea port Town. as it grew dark, quite soon after we passed these, I have of course but a very imperfect knowledge of the scenery the rest of the way. But I remember that after the Pilot came on board he conducted us up some 4 or 5 miles up a very narrow river all the way to the Jetty. This river in many places was not more than three times the width of the Steamer. Just before we got in we heard the railway train pass up to Melbourne.
Wednesday 10th. Have just visited the public reading room and picture gallery. We were quite surprised to find it so nice. I cannot say how many thousand volumes it contains, but it is an immense collection of books; the largest I ever saw. The building is large really grand affair and the rooms spacious and airy. It is a great convenience as it is open to the Public. It would certainly do credit to a city 3 times as old as Melbourne.
Friday 12th. Have just returned from a walk in the botanical gardens about a mile from here. I do not know how many acres these gardens cover, but they are very extensive. They are situated upon the side of a gently sloping hill at the foot of which flows the Yarra river. Here are cultivated the different sorts of trees and flowers which grow in almost every part of the world. The date, the Palm the Fig tree, and nearly all kinds that I have ever seen or read about. In these grounds are several hot houses. I went into 2 of them and was much delighted with luxuriant and beautiful appearances of the flowers.
Sunday 14th. Heard the Rev. Mr. New preach this morning in the albert Street Baptist Church. albert preached this evening in Collingwood, about 3 miles from here.
Monday 15th. Spent this forenoon at the Museum, which is open for the Public every day, and free from charge. This Museum, as well as the other Public buildings, and gardens of Melbourne , far exceeded our expectations; and are certainly very creditable to a city of only 30 years growth. Tomorrow we are to leave our boarding place and move into a single cottage in East Collingwood, one of the suburban towns.
March 28th. I have not been out much since we moved to the cottage, but yesterday I enjoyed a nice walk in the Fitzroy gardens. Trees natives of all climes, and countries under the sun, are prettily arranged here. Flowers line shady walks, fountains, statuary and nice seats combine to make this a very pleasant retreat, especially in a hot day. These gardens extend over many acres of ground. They are not more than ten minutes walk from the centre of Melbourne, and is always open to the public.
Melbourne is the largest city I have ever been in including its suburb urban Towns, it is much more extensive than Boston and its suburban Towns, but Melbourne is not so prosperous as Boston, the houses and shops are not so high nor can we expect them to be in a new Country like this. Melbourne is built upon 9 hills its streets are immensely wide, indeed some of them are regular broadways.
April 4th. Albert has preached in the several Baptist churches here and yesterday he received an appointment from the Australian Baptist Association to Tarnagulla; a small town about 100 miles from here; And today he received 2 letters from the Baptists of Christs Church N.Z containing the Macedonian Cry, come over and help us; He immediately laid the matter before one the old ministers here, who advised him to go to Tarnagulla for a few weeks at least, before deciding Christ Church he goes to Tarnagulla next week
April 9th. The children and I have been taking a walk in Flindey Park. It is a pretty spot, upon the banks of the Jarra River. Milton amused himself fishing in the River.
April 20th. Albert has been to Tarnagulla most two weeks. He baptized 8 last Sunday, and expects to baptize again next Sunday. The Church there has given him a call, be he has not yet decided whether he will accept it.
May 1st. Albert came home last Monday to move us up to Tarnagulla, as he had fully decided to accept the pastorate of that church. His labors have been much blessed. He has baptized several and other are waiting for the ordinance. We hastily packed up and got everything ready for a move, and Wednesday afternoon the Truckman came and took our luggage to the railroad station ( they never say Depot as we do in a America ). Then we went into Melbourne, and put up for the night at Tankards Temperance Hotel. Temperance people and temperance principles are rather scarce article in these Colonies. The common beverage is Porter, ale, and wine and nearly every body drinks those but they do not think they are doing any harm, by drinking moderately and affirm that they are quite temperate. They have far far more respect for what they call temperance than for total abstinence. I have often been quite shocked to see those liquors used by ministers, as well as others, but judging from what we have seen and heard, drunkenness is not more common here than at home. We left Melbourne Thursday at quarter past 12, in the cars and had a long ride by rail about 97 miles and at 4 oclock we reached the Rangaroo Flat Station, and as the cars do not go further in the direction that we are travelling our conveyance for the remainder of the journey is a far different one. We had scarcely alighted from the cars, when we are met by Mr John Smith, a good brother from the church at Tarnagulla, who had come with a horse and carriage to take us up there. ( It is so amusing to find John Smiths all over the world ). As it is 4 oclock when we arrive at the Kangaroo Flat Station, we tarry there for the night, at Guns Hotel. Kangaroo is a small village a better looking place than we had imagined, from the name it bears. The days in which the wild beasts roamed over the plains are among the things of the past.
Left Kangaroo Flat at 8 1/2 on Friday morning. Nearly all the way from Melbourne to Tarnagulla is settled . We passed through several fine Towns, and a number of gold mining districts and agricultural districts, the population of the latter is very thin and scattered, the farms are immensely large. Wheat is the chief product. The scenery is tame and uninteresting, there are but few rivers, lakes, or mountains, much of the country consists of vast level plains; with here and there an elevation which they call a mountain, but after seeing N. Zealand mountains they appear insignificant. We have heard of Italian skies, but can not imagine them brighter, clearer, or more beautiful than the skies of Sunny Australia. Arrived at Tarnagulla at 4 P. M. found a number of the brethren and Sisters at the parsonage who gave us a friendly welcome. Two of the Church members are fellow countrymen. I like them much. The bulk of the population of this colony are English. I feel much fatigued this morning after such a journey, but I suppose our travelling is over at least for a little while. It is just one year to day since we broke up housekeeping in Dartmouth. Quite a long time to be wandering, we can well say we are pilgrims and strangers here, and have no continuing City, but as we expect to tarry here, at least for a time, we will call this place Home ! though it is in a strange land, far away from kindred and early associations and try to comfort ourselves with the thought that though.--
For a foreign land We are not far from home and nearer to house above. We every moment come.